Hate to revive this thread but I got diff oil leaking out of the axle. Seems like I ruined the inner axle seal at the diff. How hard is it to change? Do I just slide in a new one from the outside using a long pipe or socket extension or do I need to crack open the diff and do it from there?

 

Think I found the problem. This is one of the pictures I posted above, just cropped so you can see it better. It appears the inner seal is split in two. I somehow missed this before.




I did some research. It seems that I need to pull the diff apart to change that seal. If someone knows a trick to change it without pulling everything (the diff) apart, please let me know. Otherwise I'll be ordering 2 of these, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0496&jsn=10496 some gar oil and permatex (or should I go with a gasket to make the job quicker?) and digging into the diff next Sunday. Wish me luck.

 

I would go with a lube locker gasket if I had a stock cover. Quick and reusable. I don't know of any way to do those seals without going inside.

 

NO way to do it without pulling the carrier. Aside from that, it isn't too hard. Just put your carrier straight in the freezer while you replace the seals.

 

Thanks, I saw that in the f250 section, guess it can't hurt to try. Any recommendations on gear oil? Pros and cons of a gasket vs Permatex? I'm going to do both seals while I'm in there.

 

I know the rear takes 75w 140 synthetic, but I'm not sure about the front. Maybe somebody else can chime in on that. I've done dozens of differential seals and never had a problem with regular RTV sealant. Just let it cure up a bit before filling it with oil. Overnight is ideal but not strictly necessary.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-capacity.html

75W90

 

I marked the bearing caps and shims so I could put it back together exactly as it was. I double-bagged my carrier (garbage bags) and put it in a cooler full of ice overnight before re-installing it. Everything went back together smoothly (shims and all) with no problem.

I've seen the gaskets but have been using Permatex on both front and rear since I bought the truck 10 years ago. I've put the truck through 160K miles and some rough off-roading without any leaks.

You might as well with the minimal cost for another seal. I didn't want to go back in there any time soon so I replaced both also.

A couple of things to think about:

- If you don't have a seal puller you might want to consider it. The seals not in the most convenient area and space is limited on what you can do to improvise.

- The seals need to be driven in straight. I tried to outsmart the process and concocted a tool of threaded rod along with various washers and nuts. It was marginally effective and got the job done but was not pretty (and time consuming). If I have to do this again I will be reconsidering the $200 I saved and get the install tool (qk4644 - Torque King 4x4).

 

I have the advantage of owning the installer, so I agree with Brian. Get one, rent one or borrow one.

 

Thanks for the tips Brian. From my research it seems that the Dana 50 in the Super Duty and Excursion actually shares some parts with the Dana 60 in the new models and as such the diff cover and gasket is the same. I'm likely going to go with a gasket to save a little time, I'm trying to keep it to a one day job.

The plan is to try and save the vacuum and outer axle seal that I just replaced last month when I did the passenger side unit bearing. The driver side and and both inner oil seals will be replaced. I think I'm also going to do both u joints for piece of mind. Going to use the Spicer SPL55-4X. I may not be able to do the u joints myself, I'm probably going to pull the axles, drop them off at a shop while I do the inner seals and then pick them up and throw it all back together. Did I mention I'm trying to keep it to a one day job?

So parts list so far is:

2 inner seals
1 Outer outer dust seal
1 vacuum hub seal
2 Spicer u joints
Gasket/permatex
Maybe a new diff cover
4 (or 6?) Pints of gear oil 75w 90
2 new thrust washers just in case

Oh and I noticed if I turn my auto hub to lock and back to auto it won't unlock. It seems the plastic piece/sleeve inside stayed pushed in (toward the axle). I have to manually push it back out to get it back to auto. So I might need to add a new auto hub to the list. Damn I forgot how expensive projects can be.....

Mike, what would it take to borrow/rent your tool?


Thanks for the help guys!

 

You pay shipping both ways and get it back to me in working order.

PM me your address again, and I'll send you my PayPal again. Should fit in large Priority Box.

 

IIRC it takes almost 3 quarts to fill it.

Before you open your wallet for a new auto-locking hub have you tried this:

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

It kept my locking hubs working for 8 years (helped a couple of times after they sticking after some particularly muddy off-roading).

 

Thanks Mike

Yes, I have seen guzzle's webpage many times but I still haven't pulled apart my auto hub. I thought it was working after I changed the unit bearing but in reality I didn't try to manually lock it and then test the auto function, I left it in auto and tested it like that and everything worked. I jacked up the front end Monday night to check the u joints and manually locked them a d then passengers side wouldn't unlock after multiple attempts via the dash switch. So I pulled it and discovered the problem. Even if I can't repair it I probably won't by a new one until next winter, if I leave it in auto it works fine.

So when I checked it at full lock it didn't spin as smoothly as I liked, I felt some resistance when the u joint was positioned at it's most extreme angle so I'm just going to do those too and hopefully not have to pull the front end apart again.

 

You will get some resistance in the u-joints at the most extreme angle. That would be normal. That is how they wear out...if you drive straight all the time, they would never wear out.

 

True, but when the wheel is at full lock the resistance isn't doesn't feel the same throughout one rotation. When the u joint is pointing horizontal and vertical (3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock) it seems to have quite a bit more resistance then when it's facing 1:30, 4:30, 7:30 and 10:30.

I think I'd rather just change it for piece of mind once I'm taking everything apart (again). The driver's side is a Spicer and the passenger side seems to be some no name off brand. I'm guessing the drivers side is probably still original.