Instrument Voltage Regulator:
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 968
Likes: 71
From: Cherryville,N.C.
Instrument Voltage Regulator:
I was wondering if there is a way to check the instrument voltage regulator to see if it is broke.I removed the one on my 1973 F-100 today and have one on order from DC.My fuel and temp gauge have been reading erratic for a while.Hope this is the problem.I thought I could change it under the dash at the back of gauge cluster but ended up pulling the cluster out from up top!I had a bulb out for the heater control anyway.I also have a bulb out in the radio and it looks like a major job to change it????Has anyone been down this road lately?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 2
From: Alvarado, TX
You can check the IPVR when it's installed by putting a test light to the terminals. The input side should light the light constantly of course but the other side should cause the test light to flash at a regular rate. The flash rate is adjustable by turning the little deal on the back. I'm not sure on the proper interval, though.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
And if the flickering is the fault of the switch, it doesn't mean you need to replace it.
How does the dimmer work? Does it smoothly dim the lights, or are there 'drop-outs' making the lights flicker during dimming (and brightening)?
If the switch seems bad, try spraying it with WD40. I've restored many a rotary potentiometer, and even a few positioned switches this way.
How does the dimmer work? Does it smoothly dim the lights, or are there 'drop-outs' making the lights flicker during dimming (and brightening)?
If the switch seems bad, try spraying it with WD40. I've restored many a rotary potentiometer, and even a few positioned switches this way.
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I was wondering if there is a way to check the instrument voltage regulator to see if it is broke.I removed the one on my 1973 F-100 today and have one on order from DC.My fuel and temp gauge have been reading erratic for a while.Hope this is the problem.I thought I could change it under the dash at the back of gauge cluster but ended up pulling the cluster out from up top!I had a bulb out for the heater control anyway.I also have a bulb out in the radio and it looks like a major job to change it????Has anyone been down this road lately?
D1AZ-10804-A .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR-513) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.
1971/86 F100/350 & Bronco; 1971/91 Econoline; 1983/85 Ranger; 1984/85 Bronco II // Misc: 1971/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 855
Likes: 56
From: Des Moines, Washington
The IVCR does produce about 5 volts. It uses a bimetallic strip and a set of contacts along with a heater.
Contacts closed = heater on. When temperature is high enough, contacts open. When it cools enough, contacts close. This provides a "stable" voltage for the gauges. On an oscilloscope, the "DC" looks horrendous but with an old analog voltmeter, it will be a fairly steady 5 volts.
If the dash lights flicker at a steady rate, and especially if they change with engine speed, you either have a slipping alternator belt, a very low idle, a bad diode or 2 or maybe a weak battery altho I would think that would show up in poor starting too.
Michael
PS, DeOxit is my favorite contact cleaner even though I call it snake oil due to it's claims but it really does work. I've brought many non working things back to life with it.
Contacts closed = heater on. When temperature is high enough, contacts open. When it cools enough, contacts close. This provides a "stable" voltage for the gauges. On an oscilloscope, the "DC" looks horrendous but with an old analog voltmeter, it will be a fairly steady 5 volts.
If the dash lights flicker at a steady rate, and especially if they change with engine speed, you either have a slipping alternator belt, a very low idle, a bad diode or 2 or maybe a weak battery altho I would think that would show up in poor starting too.
Michael
PS, DeOxit is my favorite contact cleaner even though I call it snake oil due to it's claims but it really does work. I've brought many non working things back to life with it.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
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From: Vicksburg, MS
After some tinkering, I decided to clean the contacts on the circuit board and the bulb sockets. That stopped the flickering, but I was able to discover I had 3 bad bulb sockets.
I also discovered an issue with the turn signal switch. I have jiggle the lever a bit to get them both to work. Is that something that can be fixed?
I also found that all the lights were only getting 8.5v. Are they supposed to get 12v?
I also discovered an issue with the turn signal switch. I have jiggle the lever a bit to get them both to work. Is that something that can be fixed?
I also found that all the lights were only getting 8.5v. Are they supposed to get 12v?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 60
From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
After some tinkering, I decided to clean the contacts on the circuit board and the bulb sockets. That stopped the flickering, but I was able to discover I had 3 bad bulb sockets.
It may be time for some new sockets.
I also discovered an issue with the turn signal switch. I have jiggle the lever a bit to get them both to work. Is that something that can be fixed?
Given enough time and money anything on a truck can be fixed.
I also found that all the lights were only getting 8.5v. Are they supposed to get 12v?
If "all" means all the panel lights it likely is due to the dropping resistor in the light switch or a sad connection somewhere in that circuit. If "all" means all the lights on the truck it is a different matter.
It may be time for some new sockets.
I also discovered an issue with the turn signal switch. I have jiggle the lever a bit to get them both to work. Is that something that can be fixed?
Given enough time and money anything on a truck can be fixed.
I also found that all the lights were only getting 8.5v. Are they supposed to get 12v?
If "all" means all the panel lights it likely is due to the dropping resistor in the light switch or a sad connection somewhere in that circuit. If "all" means all the lights on the truck it is a different matter.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Vicksburg, MS
Turn signal switch: I see that a new one can be had for about $60. I was just curious if the original was typically something that can be refurbished pretty easily.
Lights: I meant that all the lights on the instrument panel were reading 8.5v. I didn't check the headlights or any others. I'll check and see what the switch is putting out.
Lights: I meant that all the lights on the instrument panel were reading 8.5v. I didn't check the headlights or any others. I'll check and see what the switch is putting out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 60
From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
Turn signal switch: I see that a new one can be had for about $60. I was just curious if the original was typically something that can be refurbished pretty easily.
Lights: I meant that all the lights on the instrument panel were reading 8.5v. I didn't check the headlights or any others. I'll check and see what the switch is putting out.
Lights: I meant that all the lights on the instrument panel were reading 8.5v. I didn't check the headlights or any others. I'll check and see what the switch is putting out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 855
Likes: 56
From: Des Moines, Washington
The instrument panel lights should get a full 12 volts with the dimmer cranked all the way up. It sounds like the wiper may be dirty on the dimmer rheostat. It's the carbon looking thing that rubs on the turns of the rheostat when you turn it and is the thing that we are talking about cleaning when we mention using contact cleaner on the light switch. It also may be dirty where the rotating part make an electrical connection to the stationary part.
Michael
Michael
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