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84 F150 4.9 300 i6. Located in Florida, truck is somewhat hard to start. Noticed on the carb 4 ports have screws and bolts blocking what I'm assuming are the vacuum lines. Any idea would be great. Also interested in changing over the ignition system.
I would adjust it so the door is more shut and see if it starts better. If it does, you then may run into trouble with it not opening up. If that happens I am going to guess your piping from the exhaust manifold to the choke housing is plugged off.
What are your intentions with this truck? You have a real mess there, your truck was computer controlled and now everything is disconnected. You must have been doing some reading, since you mentioned you want to swap out the distributor.
The most direct route for the choke would be to get a conversion kit and convert it to a manual choke with a cable going into the cab. That way you pull on the cable and the choke door shuts, and as it warms up you push the cable in to open the choke. Much like a older style lawnmower choke.
Yeah I'm having trouble finding information about swapping the ignition system. Would it be better to buy an offenhauser 4 barrel manifold and a 4 barrel Holley or a replacement 1 barrel without the electronic choke to bypass what's already been cut?
I wouldn't introduce more problems until you get the others sorted, and going to a 4bbl will introduce more problems. Basically, a stock 300 six isn't going to need much more carburetion than the 1bbl provides. It is a low-RPM engine that doesn't need to turn more than about 3500 - 4000 RPM. So, I'd stick with a 1bbl.
But, that doesn't mean you need to stick with that 1bbl. If it is a feed-back carb then it won't provide the best metering w/o some work. And, if it is a feed-back carb there will be a computer to control it, and if the system has been hacked like it looks like it has the computer will have its knickers in a twist and will have the timing locked to about 10 degrees BTDC. So you need to convert to an ignition system that doesn't require a computer to control it - the DS-II. There are several threads about doing this swap in this sticky under Ignition and EEC (Electronic Engine Control). Read up on those and I think you'll get the idea.
84 F150 4.9 300 i6. Located in Florida, truck is somewhat hard to start. Noticed on the carb 4 ports have screws and bolts blocking what I'm assuming are the vacuum lines. Any idea would be great. Also interested in changing over the ignition system.
That carb looks very similar to mine. I just completed the duraspark II conversion on my 86 with a 300.
E = EGR Valve Port.
S = Distributor Vacuum Advance.
3 = Crowd #3.
Honestly if you are not planning on re-connecting the emissions stuff, you setup will look as simple as mine in the second attached image below.
That carb looks very similar to mine. I just completed the duraspark II conversion on my 86 with a 300.
E = EGR Valve Port.
S = Distributor Vacuum Advance.
3 = Crowd #3.
Honestly if you are not planning on re-connecting the emissions stuff, you setup will look as simple as mine in the second attached image below.
Lightning, What is the port "3 = Crowd #3."?
I am not running an EGR so not hooked up and I have the "S" port hooked up to the dist. just don't know what #3 is??? and if it should be hooked up.
Also for you and others the bowl vent as I think that is what it is next to the fuel inlet. From the hose in the picture and what I can tell from the under hood sticker it goes to the canister(s) under the batt. but IIRC it have a "Y" and I cant tell where that other hose goes can you tell me where it might go?
The other big one is with the vent bowl hose in place does the hose stop the lever between the vent & fuel inlet from moving as it should?
I was going to hook the hose up but that lever would hit the hose so wanted to check first.
Lightning, What is the port "3 = Crowd #3."?
I am not running an EGR so not hooked up and I have the "S" port hooked up to the dist. just don't know what #3 is??? and if it should be hooked up.
Dave
I will have to do some digging to see if I can find out what exactly crowd is again. I can tell you that you will be fine plugging it from my experience.
The only vacuum line line I am using from the carb itself is the ported vacuum "s" connection.
The other big one is with the vent bowl hose in place does the hose stop the lever between the vent & fuel inlet from moving as it should?
I was going to hook the hose up but that lever would hit the hose so wanted to check first.
Dave,
Yes, I am running the bowl vent but it is not hooked up correctly. I merely have a hose running from the charcoal canister to the inline check valve then to the vent. Mine does not hit the lever between the vent & fuel inlet but it is very very very close to it.
Thank you very much for the information, extremely helpful and now I have a better understanding of everything. With your current setup are you running a manual choke wired to the cab?
Thank you very much for the information, extremely helpful and now I have a better understanding of everything. With your current setup are you running a manual choke wired to the cab?
No, I currently am using a Climatic Choke. You attach a heat tube from the exhaust header to the NPT connection on the choke body. As warm exhaust gases travel/heat up the tube, the choke pulls off.
I am considering removing mine and going with a manual choke kit.
Most auto parts stores sell a manual choke conversion kit for around $10.
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