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Broken updated STC fitting

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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Broken updated STC fitting

I found the source of my low hpop pressure troubles. Mt 2005 6.0 has the updated, all steel HPOP fitting (I know it's not called the STC fitting when it's updated, but I'm not sure what to call it) and it has broke in half just behind the threads. I pulled the HPOP out again to inspect it, and I literally broke it the rest of the way off by hand with very little force. I will attach pictures if I can. Has anyone ever seen this happen?? It blew my mind. Side by side with new fitting
HPOP side
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 03:00 PM
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Haven't seen or heard of one but strange things sometimes happen. Maybe it was just machined or forged incorrectly and managed to last as long as it did???
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Haven't seen or heard of one but strange things sometimes happen. Maybe it was just machined or forged incorrectly and managed to last as long as it did???
Is it possible to just tighten it WAY too tight when installed?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:29 PM
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I actually did not touch the STC fitting at all. I went to replace it with the updated metal, screw on type and it had already been done by the previous owner. I felt it was best to just leave it alone. Hopefully that's not the problem!

Bet this is killing you!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
Is it possible to just tighten it WAY too tight when installed?
Certainly is possible. There is a torque spec and you need a crows foot to do it right along with the little plastic gauge they supply to keep things lined up.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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Yeah, it's definitely killing me! I think I've got it though. Fingers crossed. I could not believe it when I saw it. I don't think I did anything to it during installation, I think it was the root of all my issues. I have replaced it now, torqued everything correctly, getting close to starting. I honestly believe that the guy I bought it from DID NOT follow directions when he updated the STC fitting, and after me abusing it for 120,000 miles it had enough!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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It definitely was the issue with the no start, that would be a massive leak.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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Well, she's running. BUT, my hpop pressure at idle is around 750-780 psi. I just started it for the first time in about 2 months, so I don't know if that may be normal. It was around 850-870 at high idle. ICP voltage was right at 1 volt to maybe 1.2 at idle. It goes into gear just fine now as well, no more stalling. So I'm very happy, and VERY appreciative to the guys that have helped me. I haven't road tested it because I actually broke the coolant overflow nipple (from the top of the radiator to the degas bottle) off my radiator when I was climbing around the hood sometime. Does that HPOP pres sure at idle seem high to anyone else?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 07:06 PM
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Get the air out of the system then after its up to operating temp revisit your reading. Should be around 580's
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 07:09 PM
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Are you talking cold idle or hot? Hot idle will should be upper 500's to mid 600's
Just thinking out loud here, but if that old "STC" had a hairline crack before it blew it's possible that it was calling for more HPO to compensate for the loss resulting in the slightly higher pressure.

Someone else can chime in, my thinking might be off on that.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 07:11 PM
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That makes sense to me, and I'd say I definitely need to get the air out of the system. I only let her idle for about 7 minutes because I didn't want coolant spewing out of the broken nipple on the radiator. It may just need to get to operating temp. It barely started climbing.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by McBusiness11
That makes sense to me, and I'd say I definitely need to get the air out of the system. I only let her idle for about 7 minutes because I didn't want coolant spewing out of the broken nipple on the radiator. It may just need to get to operating temp. It barely started climbing.
Once things are sealed up, take it out and do some WOT romps from about 30 mph up to cruising speed. Should work them out after a little while.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 12:34 AM
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Just a thought. If the person installing the part did not get it quite in the correct spot
as it was being torqued down and then tried to move it a bit with a big wrench.
That could of put enough force into the fitting to start a stress point that would later to
the full fracturing of the fitting.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 01:30 AM
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That's exactly what I think happened. I really think he tried to just install the fitting without the alignment tool, and it made it weak. There's just no other explanation. It's pretty strong steel to just break like that!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 03:15 AM
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It looks like the break was right at the point where the size transition happens to be.

The only thing that really counts is you got it fixed.
 
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