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1971 f250 300 cid, 6-cyl. wobbly fan, my radiator is past repair, need new water pump, pulled both off, any recommendations on a good replacement new radiator and water pump? would local auto parts have replacement water pump? and while these parts are off anything else you all would do? harmonic balancer?
Local parts stores will have it all within a day or so. Oreillys water pumps are higher quality than the Napa ones. I have also used a couple of aluminum-plastic radiators from 1-800-radiator and liked them. Very good price, and nice thick core for good cooling.
Shrouds are especially handy for towing, in stop and go traffic, and when idling.
On the open highway, you don't even need a fan!
In-town, I would strongly suggest getting one.
Notice that about a 1/2 inch or ~1/2 the blade needs to be out the back of the shroud, or you just paddle the air around.
Would you consider an electric-fan upgrade at this time?
Generally a good idea, I have run a few on different vehicles over the years. The electronic thermostat controlled ones have a fatal flaw though, the relay is a cheap POS without a resistor so the spike on the relay opening will fry the electronics pretty quick. I foun this out the hard way on my Galaxie, one time it fried off and overheated pretty bad, another one fried on and killed the battery. I got stuck in traffic and shut the car off, but didn't hear the fan running. When I went to restart it about 90mins later, it was dead.
I don't know about a resistor... that lump may be a Diode.
Good relays have diode built-in. Check the schematic on the side of the relay. The diode creates a 'snubber' to allow transient voltages to loop back towards the positive side, and dissipate the energy. Otherwise you produce a spike, and it erodes the relay terminals, and causes other issues. That is why cheap relays don't last long in cars. Buyer beware.
On less-expensive relays, they should 'usually' get an additional diode added across the load terminals. Connect it on the backside of the relay connector or block if you can to keep it out of the way. Diodes are directional, so point the schematic arrow back towards the positive side. Shrink it in tubing.
There are better solutions, that have added benefits, but I'll post something in the wiring section for the engineering-minded purists. See varistors, transorbs, resistor-capacitor snubber circuit.
I haven't researched the 300CID water pumps but here is the part numbers for the 360 &390 engines. Notice that Gates is the major manufacture of nearly all of the aftermarket water pumps. Most likely the same for the 300CID engine too:
FE 360/390 WATER PUMPS
STANDARD FLOW WATER PUMPS:
BOSCH 99109
CARTER 50618
GATES 44004
NAPA 44004 (MADE BY GATES) REMAN# 58208
HYTEC-AUTOMOTIVE 414038 (MADE BY GATES)
MOTORCRAFT PW-138 (MADE BY GATES)
PARTS MASTER 4-510 (MADE BY GATES)
SKF PC510
TRW FP1479
US MOTOR WORK US1075 (MADE BY GATES)
THE FOLLOWING FORD PART NUMBERS ARE INTERCHANGABLE WITH GATES 44004:
C5AZ-8501F, OR G,N,R,S,V,W,U/ D2TZ-8501C, OR BA/ DOAZ-8501D
C8AZ-8501B/ D2TZ-8501C/ D4TE-8505AZA/ D4TZ-8501B
HEAVY DUTY AND HIGH FLOW WATER PUMPS:
AIRTEX AW1075H (HEAVY DUTY)
MURRAY (O’REILLYS) CP1075H (HEAVY DUTY)
EDELBROCK 8805(HIGH FLOW)
8835(HIGH FLOW & POLISHED ALUM.)
JEGS 555-51045 (HIGH FLOW, CAST IRON)
MILODON 16240(JEGS PT#, HIGH FLOW, STEEL)
TUFF STUFF 1421N (NPD PT#8501-5B, HIGH FLOW)
There are two different water pump shaft lengths on the 240/300 water pumps. There's a shorter 3-5/8" length and a longer 4-5/16" shaft length.
When I added PS and a 3-sheave water pump pulley and a 3-sheave harmonic balancer, I had to change from the short shaft water pump to the longer shaft version. New NAPA Tru-Flow water pump --it was under $40 dollars.
