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This looks like a nice hitch, but why would you need a double socket or a 20k? I must be missing something to justify this upgrade Tom. Nice write up by the way!
I so need to do my undercarriage both of your shots are so rust free.
Thanks, I will be doing a complete write up on the new hitch soon, I just wanted to make my work around clear for Big Green EX's question.
For me the justification for such a heavy duty hitch was based on how tired my factory hitch was getting and the weight of my TT and it's tongue. The original hitch was suffering from a good bit of corrosion, I had cleaned it up and repainted it twice with Rustoleum but the rust kept coming back through. It was also showing signs of fatigue from being overloaded by the trailers we tow. It would flex down about 1/8" or so when loaded with our TT's 1450lb tongue weight, not a comforting sight!
I looked at the Curt replacement hitch but decided on the SuperHitch for the additional capacity and what seemed like stronger construction (I have not done a side by side comparison between the two yet). We tow 3 to 5 thousand miles a year and I place a high value on reliability.
It's always nice to live in the rust belt and get complimented on having a rust free rig by a Southerner. So I'll gloat a little (my EX was in LA until '10 when I bought it), I dropped my tank for the hitch install to allow me access to do some cleaning and preservation while under there. I used Chassis Saver paints with a base coat of aluminum silver and a gloss black top coat and rubberized undercoating on the frame rails.
Originally Posted by W4n7s0m3
Ah that makes sense I could use the top one for a bike rack. Good angle for the Boss(aka wife).
My 38 TT comes in at 10K dry weight(factory says that is loaded) . I use an Arrow and have it loaded down. I am starting to round out my hitch pin hole. Thinking I am around 1100 to 1300 tongue weight.
I am worried about axle warp. Also I stretched the head bolts on the 6.0L(blew the head gaskets now studded and so much more) write up coming.
Many times rounding out or elongation of the hitch pin hole is due to the angled end of the pin running into the pin hole and hogging it out as the drawbar moves under load. This can be eliminated by simply mounting a hose clamp to hitch pin just before the elbow so the pin hole only sees straight pin and not the angled section. I was starting to see some elongation on my pin hole and adding a small squeeze type hose clamp stopped any further hole damage.
If your trailer is 10k dry I would expect to see a tongue weight as high as mine at 1450lbs or so, my TT shipped from the factory at 9482lbs, that's without a battery, propane or the heavy HA hitch. I would expect you to be over the factory hitch's 1250 TW rating at least.
I'm not planning to use the second hitch hole while towing the TT, but if I use the lower hole with my adjustable drop tri-ball hitch at it's lowest setting my utility trailer can now tow level.
This looks like a nice hitch, but why would you need a double socket or a 20k? I must be missing something to justify this upgrade Tom. Nice write up by the way!
Here is my Plug and hitch after getting rear ended by a Nissan. I just bent it back out with a pry bar and put the plug back in.
BigGreen did you miss your hitch backing up or something else, it looks like you grazed something? Your plug looks like it got crunched is it reusable or did you order a new harness. Mine was deformed so I had to bend it back into shape, but it still works great.
I so need to do my undercarriage both of your shots are so rust free.
No we got rear end d by an F150 who got rear ended by a Expedition. She was doing about 45 or so when she plowed into the kid who then hit us, the two victim vehicles were both at a dead stop. The picture is just the plug bracket, but the bumper and the rear drivers side barn door all need to be replaced also. Should be going in when the receiver arrives.
I am getting ready to order the Superhitch. Where did you guys find the best price?
I found that everywhere is essentially the same price so I ordered it directly from TorkLift Central which is SuperHitch. They are local to me so I had to pay sales tax, but I didn't have to pay shipping. I think it was about a wash, although I'm not sure if shipping is typically included for cross country shipments. It was $650.42 after tax and brought to my front door. It's definitely heavy.
I want pics of those, I'm thinking of ditching the factory chrome tube steps and that's sort of the direction I'd like to take. Would really like quarter inch wall tube instead of eight but haven't seen any sturdy ones.
I want pics of those, I'm thinking of ditching the factory chrome tube steps and that's sort of the direction I'd like to take. Would really like quarter inch wall tube instead of eight but haven't seen any sturdy ones.
Watch my build thread. I will post some pictures when then come in.
So I'll gloat a little 
(my EX was in LA until '10 when I bought it), I dropped my tank for the hitch install to allow me access to do some cleaning and preservation while under there. I used Chassis Saver paints with a base coat of aluminum silver and a gloss black top coat and rubberized undercoating on the frame rails.
. I use an Arrow and have it loaded down. I am starting to round out my hitch pin hole. Thinking I am around 1100 to 1300 tongue weight.
