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To anyone who has a Torquelift Superhitch, were you able to utilize the stock trailer plug in and angled bracket? Or, did you need to install something aftermarket? Thanks for your help, I'm trying to get the stuff ordered for the replacement after we go rear-ended.
Just yesterday I was communicating with Torklift about how they could alter the SuperHitch to make it work with the factory EX trailer plug bracket. All it would take would be the addition of a single threaded hole in the cross bar, just like the factory hitch has. With that addition the factory bracket could be used, the only difference would be the plug face would be slightly more perpendicular to the vehicle than the factory angle due to the new cross bar being straight vs curved on the factory hitch.
I know that both Eric @ExxWhy and I both have these SuperHitches, we both reused the factory plug bracket in different ways. Eric shows how he mounted his bracket with one of the cross bar to side plate bolts in his hitch thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...installed.html
I will be doing a write up on my install soon, but for now here is how I reused my bracket.
First I welded a short (1.5") section of 1"X1" square steel tubing to the backside of the bracket then I drilled a couple of holes near the plug end of it. Saddled the bracket on top of the cross bar to locate exactly where the two holes needed to be drilled.
I used a pair of Uni-Strut/Super-Strut type U bolts one through the square tubing and the other through the 2 holes. These U bolts are long enough to allow for sandwiching the cross bar between the bracket on top and a 1/8" plate I cut and drilled on the bottom.
So with the bracket sitting on top of the cross bar and the U bolts in place I used the tab for the supplied non-compatible universal plug bracket to set the location of the recycled factory bracket.
Then I clamped the bracket in place using some nuts and washers against the new plate I made for the bottom.
Even with the beefier SuperHitch cross bar and the U bolt addition there is still enough room to snake the factory wiring harness behind the bracket to the plug.
Finished product has the factory plug now at about 90* to the truck/hitch vs the factory angled position but it works just fine, looks good and allows for better ground clearance than using the universal bracket mounted under the hitch.
If you don't have access to a welder this same setup could be adjusted to use some U bolts (or regular bolts with a couple of additional metal strips on top to make the sandwich) going North/South vs my East/West arrangement.
Other than this bracket work around I couldn't be happier with the new SuperHitch, this thing is seriously heavy duty and is very well built.
Only thing I can add is the hitch comes with a universal bracket that you could use, but I think using the OEM bracket is better. Tom's assembly is roughly about what I am planning to change mine to. I find my current location too far from the centerline and it's a stretch for some of the trailers I use.
Yeah, I think the supplied universal bracket could hold the 7 pin plug but there isn't a place to fasten the 4 pin plug on it like the factory bracket. Plus that heavy factory bracket offers a good bit of impact protection for the plugs.
Actually yes, that kind of protection.
What would be left of it if it were made from thin sheet metal? All you need right now is a new 7 pin plug socket and a few minutes in the vice and a hammer. How bad is the damage to the rest of the hitch? Or did the plug bracket take the impact?
I am glad you guys started a thread about the SuperHitch. It is next on my mod list. At what point to you guys think this hitch is necessary. My travel Trailer is 9,800 lbs loaded and I am using Propride hitch which weighs 100 lbs. I am torn between upgrading the bolts on my OEM hitch to put me at 1200 lbs tong weight or getting the SuperHitch.
I have a gut feeling that the 965 lbs tong weight on the trailer manufacturer website is not real accurate and I will be pushing over 1200 lbs tong weight.
I would get your rig weighed to see where you really are at. Some trailers can pack on the weight upfront when you load them up. Brochure weight is almost never right.
BTW, I don't have the handy dandy 4 pin connector on my elderly model. That's a nice touch.
This looks like a nice hitch, but why would you need a double socket or a 20k? I must be missing something to justify this upgrade Tom. Nice write up by the way!
Here is my Plug and hitch after getting rear ended by a Nissan. I just bent it back out with a pry bar and put the plug back in.
BigGreen did you miss your hitch backing up or something else, it looks like you grazed something? Your plug looks like it got crunched is it reusable or did you order a new harness. Mine was deformed so I had to bend it back into shape, but it still works great.
I so need to do my undercarriage both of your shots are so rust free.
The double socket is just how Torklift makes these, it's used for an extension on a truck camper. The weight capacity is the key. Not hard to find a trailer that goes over 1300lb tongue weight. I'm planning to fab up some sort of a bike rack to fit in the second socket while towing my trailer.
Ah that makes sense I could use the top one for a bike rack. Good angle for the Boss(aka wife).
My 38 TT comes in at 10K dry weight(factory says that is loaded) . I use an Arrow and have it loaded down. I am starting to round out my hitch pin hole. Thinking I am around 1100 to 1300 tongue weight.
I am worried about axle warp. Also I stretched the head bolts on the 6.0L(blew the head gaskets now studded and so much more) write up coming.
Eric covered the basic reason for the SuperHitch having two holes as a carry over from their truck hitches. The double hitch gets used by folks with truck campers that extend past the rear of the truck, Torklift makes a matching SuperTruss that goes in both holes and extends to various lengths to keep the ability to tow a trailer behind the truck camper. Pretty slick setup.
Actually yes, that kind of protection.
What would be left of it if it were made from thin sheet metal? All you need right now is a new 7 pin plug socket and a few minutes in the vice and a hammer. How bad is the damage to the rest of the hitch? Or did the plug bracket take the impact?
I know, I wasn't trying to be a smart a**. We got hit pretty good so insurance is paying for the hitch and a new plug bracket, I won't be pounding the dent out of this one. I just ordered my new SuperHitch and plan on doing a retrofit similar to the one you posted pictures of. Shouldn't take to long to get as they are only an hour or two south of me. Good time to update because insurance is going to pay for a portion of the receiver and the install. I think I'm looking at about $250 out of pocket to upgrade.
I know, I wasn't trying to be a smart a**. We got hit pretty good so insurance is paying for the hitch and a new plug bracket, I won't be pounding the dent out of this one. I just ordered my new SuperHitch and plan on doing a retrofit similar to the one you posted pictures of. Shouldn't take to long to get as they are only an hour or two south of me. Good time to update because insurance is going to pay for a portion of the receiver and the install. I think I'm looking at about $250 out of pocket to upgrade.
Replacing the receiver after a decent crash impact is always a good idea, especially if you tow a big heavy trailer like yours. $250 for the upgrade (and it is a serious upgrade) is a nice bargain, and you are going to love the SuperHitch, this thing is beefy!