5th Wheel Prep Installation
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 84
From: Rainier OR
I have had the B&W kit in 3 different trucks. The Ford factory system is MUCH better in terms of strength and ease of use. The ford kit does NOT requires ant wrenching or torqueing. ALL the weight of the 5th wheel hitch goes on to 4 pucks that are directly mounted to the frame. B&W has some load still going onto the bed of the truck.
B&W companion install: pill pin in wheel wheel, remove turn over ball and install adaptor, get out of truck and re-insert pin, back in bed and install lower section of companion hitch, align and torque vertical hold down bolt, torque the 2 u bolts ( a total of 5 fasteners that need tightened), then install upper section of companion hitch and two pins.
Ford kit: remove 4 plugs, set hitch in place, swing 4 levers 1/4 turn and install two pins, no tools needed.
The max capacity of the B&W companion is 20,000. Ford is 26,500 (or more).
I addition the last 3 B&W kits I purchased the powder coat came off in less that 6 months, call B&W and they FLAT OUT DO NOT CARE!
For YEARS B&W WAS the best, but not any more.
B&W companion install: pill pin in wheel wheel, remove turn over ball and install adaptor, get out of truck and re-insert pin, back in bed and install lower section of companion hitch, align and torque vertical hold down bolt, torque the 2 u bolts ( a total of 5 fasteners that need tightened), then install upper section of companion hitch and two pins.
Ford kit: remove 4 plugs, set hitch in place, swing 4 levers 1/4 turn and install two pins, no tools needed.
The max capacity of the B&W companion is 20,000. Ford is 26,500 (or more).
I addition the last 3 B&W kits I purchased the powder coat came off in less that 6 months, call B&W and they FLAT OUT DO NOT CARE!
For YEARS B&W WAS the best, but not any more.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 4
I pulled the trigger on the Ford kit. Should be in Tuesday. Not sure when I am going to get around to doing the install. I am travelling out of state next week. When I do I will get pictures.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 4
So I guess I forgot to update y-all on this project. The toughest part of the install was getting the bed bolts out. I had to torch half of them. That took most of day 1. About noon on day 2, I was done.
I did put my air bags in afterward. The Firestone kit is designed to work with the Ford 5th wheel prep. so no cutting required there.
I decided to repurpose my existing hitch so I bought the Reese adapter frame. Fits like a glove.
Overall I am extremely happy I went with the Ford kit. I know the Reese kit can be put in without unbolting the bed, but this Ford cross member is STOUT.
I did put my air bags in afterward. The Firestone kit is designed to work with the Ford 5th wheel prep. so no cutting required there.
I decided to repurpose my existing hitch so I bought the Reese adapter frame. Fits like a glove.
Overall I am extremely happy I went with the Ford kit. I know the Reese kit can be put in without unbolting the bed, but this Ford cross member is STOUT.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 343
From: Breckenridge, TX
Worried about rust sticking them in, or whether or not to replace if you can remove them?
They're not TTY (at least I've never seen a torque angle spec for installation, so if they are they're very poorly documented); as I understand it the clips are not fully threaded when new and the bolts cut the last bit into them. They're not "self-tapping" per se, it's more like a tapered bolt interface fit for retention. So replacement is probably specified when they're removed at a dealer, but mine have been in and out several times with no apparent ill side effects.
If they're rusted, just cut them out and replace, it's not worth the hassle of trying to remove them whole.
They're not TTY (at least I've never seen a torque angle spec for installation, so if they are they're very poorly documented); as I understand it the clips are not fully threaded when new and the bolts cut the last bit into them. They're not "self-tapping" per se, it's more like a tapered bolt interface fit for retention. So replacement is probably specified when they're removed at a dealer, but mine have been in and out several times with no apparent ill side effects.
If they're rusted, just cut them out and replace, it's not worth the hassle of trying to remove them whole.
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