Help: Stuck Ball Joints
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New User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Monrovia, AL
Help: Stuck Ball Joints
Need some help. Replacing ball joints on my 04 Excursion v10 4x4. I can' get the steering knuckle off of the truck to get to the ball joints. The lower ball joint is stick. I've tried hammering, tried a puller, tried a propane torch to heat and the hammer and it won't budge! Any other ideas? Having the same problem on both sides. Thanks!
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 427
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Yeah I've done it on multiple 2004 F250s that see city use and salt. You need oxy- acetylene. Can buy a small plumbers/ hobby kit.
The knuckle won't pop out of the tapped right? If you get it HOT one tap with a mini sledge on the side of the knuckle usually gets them to pop. Then let the knuckle cool down on its own.
The knuckle won't pop out of the tapped right? If you get it HOT one tap with a mini sledge on the side of the knuckle usually gets them to pop. Then let the knuckle cool down on its own.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
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From: Land of Taxes
Heat it, quench it, then beat it. You may need a couple of cycles of this for real stubborn parts. Dont hammer on it when its red hot as you will distort the knuckle and taper.
Heat it to about ~500*F so its NOT red just good and hot. Hit it with warm not ice cold water to quench, (the water should hiss.), then wack it hard at the biggest part of the knuckle with a 3+lb maul. If you do get it red(and somethings you do need to do so to get things lose) let it cool back down to iron color before quenching or hammering. This will avoid distortion and altering the knuckles metallurgy (i.e. hardening it). Think Safety.
Alternative method is same as above with the heat and quench cycles but use a high quality air hammer on the stud with the castle nut (if equipped) backed off level and upside down with the top of the stud.
Follow up with your success.
Heat it to about ~500*F so its NOT red just good and hot. Hit it with warm not ice cold water to quench, (the water should hiss.), then wack it hard at the biggest part of the knuckle with a 3+lb maul. If you do get it red(and somethings you do need to do so to get things lose) let it cool back down to iron color before quenching or hammering. This will avoid distortion and altering the knuckles metallurgy (i.e. hardening it). Think Safety.
Alternative method is same as above with the heat and quench cycles but use a high quality air hammer on the stud with the castle nut (if equipped) backed off level and upside down with the top of the stud.
Follow up with your success.
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