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i have a 73 f100, with factory gauges, both the fuel gauge and the oil pressure gauge act wonky as heck, the both go all the way to the right, some times they say all the way to the left, and if the oil gauge wire gets unplugged the fuel gauge then seems to work. i have checked grounds and they seem to be good, i'm open to all suggestions, it has a new instrument cluster voltage regulator, it did it with the old one as well. electrical problems are making me hate this truck.
Subscribed. Mine does the same, and the "solution" for others always seems to be a lucky find with a ground somewhere. It's -40 here these days though, so not exactly trouble shooting weather.
Cleaning all the contact surfaces on my panel and circuit "board" helped my gauges and lights work better. A good clean ground from engine to firewall and battery to engine made the biggest difference for me.
How old are the main battery, starter, solenoid cables? If they are original they need replacement. There should be a cable from block to firewall, this is how everything in the cabin gets juice, from battery to block, to firewall etc.
they probably are the originals truth be told. none of the cables seem to have wear in them, the the ground strap from the firewall to the engine has run bare.
A bare ground cable isn't a cause for concern if you stop and think about it. Thing is, just looking at cables or connections doesn't indicate whether they are failing or not. The cable terminals are crimped, and corrode inside where it can't be seen. For reliability, ignition, engine starting and charging current transfer, this is probably the easiest and most inexpensive maintenance that can be done.
My trucks had the original ground wire from head to firewall still in place...barely. The insulation was gone and the wires were frayed and brittle. I replaced with a #4 battery cable from the auto part store. Gauges are much happier
A bare ground cable isn't a cause for concern if you stop and think about it. Thing is, just looking at cables or connections doesn't indicate whether they are failing or not. The cable terminals are crimped, and corrode inside where it can't be seen. For reliability, ignition, engine starting and charging current transfer, this is probably the easiest and most inexpensive maintenance that can be done.
i have replaced the terminal ends that connect to the battery, but on the same note i've not replaced the ends that connect to the starter and the block and solenoid.
i'll try the replacing the ground from block to cab, any other grounds that i should be on the look out for?
my worn out turn signal switch was causing brake light problems could this effect the dash?
the thing in the column that makes it so you cant just shove the lever in park or reverse broke and was ratteling around in the shift collar( it fell out after awhile) and it would spark and cause the lights in the dash to go wonky could my problem stem from this?
i have replaced the terminal ends that connect to the battery, but on the same note i've not replaced the ends that connect to the starter and the block and solenoid.
i'll try the replacing the ground from block to cab, any other grounds that i should be on the look out for?
my worn out turn signal switch was causing brake light problems could this effect the dash?
the thing in the column that makes it so you cant just shove the lever in park or reverse broke and was ratteling around in the shift collar( it fell out after awhile) and it would spark and cause the lights in the dash to go wonky could my problem stem from this?
I'm gonna try everything yall listed i think if i doesnt go away it might be a bad sending unit somewhere along the way.
1 sending unit will not make BOTH fuel & water temp gauges mess up at the same time.
It has to be something in common with both gauges like a ground or a power connection to the gauge panel or to the IVR even if new.
As for the batt. cables, just replacing the ends at the batt is not a fix andcan only lead to issues down the road as the ends are now open for corrosion.
They are cheap just buy new ones and be done, Batt to solenoid, solenoid to starter, batt to engine block, engine block to cab fire wall to start.
Any connections should be clean and bare metal both where they bolt to and the wire ends and NO you cant look at them and know they are good.
Dave ----