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Hopped in the truck tonight for a little drive and noticed both blinker indicators were lit up and the fuel, temp, and oil guages were all showing really high readings. Also, the entire cluster was dimmer when this would happen. When the lights would brighten back up and the blinker indicators would go out the guages would return to normal ranges. I did have the cluster out a couple weeks ago to fix the speedo. It I've had it out a 100 times before and never had a problem.. Not sure where to start looking.
Hopped in the truck tonight for a little drive and noticed both blinker indicators were lit up and the fuel, temp, and oil guages were all showing really high readings. Also, the entire cluster was dimmer when this would happen. When the lights would brighten back up and the blinker indicators would go out the guages would return to normal ranges. I did have the cluster out a couple weeks ago to fix the speedo. It I've had it out a 100 times before and never had a problem.. Not sure where to start looking.
Was this happening before the key was turned to the "on" position, or whilein "start". Or while it was running? When you removed the panel (the last time) did you have to unplug the wires that go to the IVR (Inst. Voltage Regulator) or the temp gauge?
A bad ground would be the first thing to look for. Currant will go where ever it has to in order to find ground and this causes feedback, which can manifest in the strangest of symptoms.
I'm wondering if my turn signal switch is causing it. It is really sloppy and the detente are shot and you have to hold down on the turn signal arm to get the blinkers to work. But, not sure this would cause the guages to read high.
I'm wondering if my turn signal switch is causing it. It is really sloppy and the detente are shot and you have to hold down on the turn signal arm to get the blinkers to work. But, not sure this would cause the guages to read high.
Sounds to me like something is shorting to ground. Or 2X Willow. I'd take the cluster back out. Check the connector and it's wires that plug in to the cluster. Also check the cluster ground wire to be intact. I just happened to pick 1969 for a year of Bump for the pic below. Notice #57 ground wire. And I would definitely change the WHOLE turn signal switch. It's worn out and plus, you should always fix what you KNOW is broken 1st.
I'm wondering if my turn signal switch is causing it. It is really sloppy and the detente are shot and you have to hold down on the turn signal arm to get the blinkers to work. But, not sure this would cause the guages to read high.
There's more than one T/S switch, what year is it? If it's a 1969, I need the last 6 digits of the VIN
It's a 67. I know i need to fix the turn signal switch. It's been bad for quite awhile but has never done this. Is the ground wire within the plug on a 67?
It's a 67. I know i need to fix the turn signal switch. It's been bad for quite awhile but has never done this. Is the ground wire within the plug on a 67?
Yep, it is. Here is 1967 below. T/S switch 1967/69 before serial number G30,001 is Ford part number C9TZ13341C. Repro available numerous places including www.dennis-carpenter.com. $30.00 in my Feb 2013 catalog.
Yeah I saw DC had them. Would the switch cause this.
It is possible. A stretch, but possible. The park lamp and tail lamp bulbs go through it. And ground at those bulbs. Next time the problem pops up move the T/S handle and see if the problem goes away or changes. But as I stated above, one should always fix what you know is broke 1st. Some times this fixes a problem with no apparent or obvious reason. When you install the new T/S switch, clip the old switch's wires off close to it. Then use some or all of the old wires to pull the new switch's wires down the column.
I have since figured out that my cluster only does this when I pull the lights on. Shut them off and they go back to working properly. Would this still be a ground problem or maybe something in the light switch?
I have since figured out that my cluster only does this when I pull the lights on. Shut them off and they go back to working properly. Would this still be a ground problem or maybe something in the light switch?
Could be either but I'm bettin' the switch. Does it feel loose as a goose? Prolly worn out. It is part number D3ZZ11654A. Still available from Ford. Suggested retail price of $51.51. Or you can buy a made in China one at your local Parts Store.
Could be either but I'm bettin' the switch. Does it feel loose as a goose? Prolly worn out.
It is part number D3ZZ11654A.. Headlamp Switch Kit(MotorcraftSW-1245). Still available from Ford. Suggested retail price of $51.51.*
Or you can buy a made in China one at your local Parts Store.
This D3ZZ headlamp switch kit replaced the 1965/75 truck, 1966/76 Bronco, 1969/75 Econoline, some 1976 truck/Econoline and misc passenger car headlamp switches, includes an extension.
Because the 11661's (headlamp switch **** & shaft) were different lengths, this extension could be placed between the switch and the back of the dash so the 11661's would fit properly.
Ford confusion: This is a 1973 Mustang (D3ZZ) part number, but it wasn't used on 1973 Mustang's!
*AFAIK .. cheapest price on the net: autonationfordwhitebearlake.com online price: $31.16 / This dealer is located in MN, so shipping charges will apply.