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How do I go about doing an egr delete on my 95 f150? What all do I need? Is there a kit someone can refer me to? And what exactly do I need to do. Also on the pic I posted, can someone tell me if it is part of the egr? If not then what is it and what do the hoses hook up to?
That's the thermactor AIR (air injection reaction) system. It is used with an air pump (smog pump) to pump air into the exhaust stream at either the exhaust ports to assist in completing the combustion of unburned fuel or into the catalytic converters to support the reactions there. It is pretty harmless for performance, but does a lot to clean up your exhaust, so it doesn't really gain you much by removing it.
The EGR on that vintage engine usually uses an exhaust passage cast into the intake manifold, routing exhaust gasses from the heads to a plate behind the throttle body. A vacuum actuated valve opens under certain conditions to allow the exhaust gas into the intake manifold. The easiest way to defeat it is to just pull the vacuum line from it, but that can throw a check engine light.
Modern engine controls are tuned pretty tightly, so that if you disable something, such as the EGR, you can cause problems, such as increasing the potential for engine knock. In addition, disabling the EGR causes the engine to produce excessive NOx gasses, the same problem that Volkswagon had with their diesel cheat. Are you wanting to disable it because you're having a problem with it?
That's the thermactor AIR (air injection reaction) system. It is used with an air pump (smog pump) to pump air into the exhaust stream at either the exhaust ports to assist in completing the combustion of unburned fuel or into the catalytic converters to support the reactions there. It is pretty harmless for performance, but does a lot to clean up your exhaust, so it doesn't really gain you much by removing it.
The EGR on that vintage engine usually uses an exhaust passage cast into the intake manifold, routing exhaust gasses from the heads to a plate behind the throttle body. A vacuum actuated valve opens under certain conditions to allow the exhaust gas into the intake manifold. The easiest way to defeat it is to just pull the vacuum line from it, but that can throw a check engine light.
Modern engine controls are tuned pretty tightly, so that if you disable something, such as the EGR, you can cause problems, such as increasing the potential for engine knock. In addition, disabling the EGR causes the engine to produce excessive NOx gasses, the same problem that Volkswagon had with their diesel cheat. Are you wanting to disable it because you're having a problem with it?
I'm looking to remove it because it doesn't really work with the aftermarket long tube headers I just installed. I was planning on just removing ever involved with the egr, problem is I don't know what to do with the ports for the egr in the intake plenum and stuff after it is removed. Not quite sure what to do here.
Long tube headers on a 302 (5L) engine have zero effect on EGR operation. Highly suggest to leave the EGR intact. The air injection system can be deleted. Remove those hoses, check valve and cross over tube in the picture. Remove the air pump and all vacuum hoses leading to and from the TAB/TAD solenoids. Leave those solenoids electrically connected to keep the Check Engine Light off.
You will fail some of the KOER tests, but that will not trigger a CEL. You can plug the ports in the back of the heads with short bolts. I forget the size - thread.
You can delete the EGR without any negative effects, other than a permanent check engine light staying on. I've run my 96 E150 van for 30K miles with it plugged. Ditto on a 95 F150 I had previously. What I did was pull the EGr valve off the intake and thread the hole behind it with a 3/8NPT tap, then screwed a 3/8" allen plug into the hole, then bolted the EGR back in place. As for the Thermactor system, that works so well, Ford discontinued it on the 96-97 351's in the pickups and vans. (My 96 E150 included) Remove the whole thing (if your local state will pass it without it) leave the crossover tube in the rear, but plug the check valve. If there's two cats, there may be another tube running to it, on my 95 F150, I removed that cat and just ran the rear cat. Never had any negative effects from running it this way other than the CEL staying on
If you want to remove the crossover tube in the rear, the holes in the heads it covers are threaded, but are likely carboned up (unless they're freshly done) the threads are 5/8 NC and can be plugged with two short 5/8NC bolts
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