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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 08:34 PM
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Engine Swap

Hello All! I have a 1995 F250 4x4 7.3 with a shade over 350k miles. I bought the truck not running and I've nursed it back to a running state. It runs pretty good, but smokes blue. I think it's worse when it's idling, but smokes pretty consistently.
I haven't done a compression test, but I feel there's a good chance that it's either bad rings or valves. I got a deal on a used 7.3 of the same year that only needs to have new injector cups.
Are there any tips or suggestions for removal and replacement of my existing engine?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 09:09 PM
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...or the replacement of the injector cups?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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Maybe its smoking blue because the injector O rings need replacing. Another motor hanging around isn't a bad idea either.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 09:51 PM
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Well, I recently pulled all 8 injectors and replaced all of the O rings. I was hoping it was something relatively easy to fix, but it doesn't sound like I got lucky.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 09:58 PM
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Were you sure to torque the injectors down??? I ruined an almost brand new set of rosewood stage 1s because I didn't torque the bolts.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 09:59 PM
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hum, is the fuel in the filter housing look dark or like normal fuel?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 10:01 PM
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Am I looking at a ton of work to pull the old engine?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
Were you sure to torque the injectors down??? I ruined an almost brand new set of rosewood stage 1s because I didn't torque the bolts.
Well, I think so, but should I torque them again before I decide to R/R?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
hum, is the fuel in the filter housing look dark or like normal fuel?
Not sure. I can check it tomorrow. What would that indicate if the fuel is dark?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 11:13 PM
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You might have nicked a O ring when you replaced them, maybe.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 11:55 PM
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I'd test it first. I'm always surprised on how many 3-400k motors still test near 400 psi (corrected per altitude).

could be as simple as an exhsust side seal on the turbine side of the turbo. I will say in my experience even when I have seen trucks consume up to 1.5qt every ten miles mixed in the fuel via split rings, it was not blue.

pulling to motor truly is not all that hard. Once the radiator and core support are out, it's a matter of disconnecting the main harness and transmission/fuel lines and that is about it! Pulling a Subaru motor is more time intensive.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMelton78
Am I looking at a ton of work to pull the old engine?
I can do it in 8 hours on my truck which is a 5 speed, with a standard trans the trans has to be removed first.
with auto just unbolt the torque converter and trans bolts, disconnect wiring harness drain cooling system, remove fan, radiator, ac compressor, ps pump and alternator. disconnect down pipe, dis connect fuel lines, move harness at firewall up and remove plastic loom holders. remove nuts from motor mount studs. support trans lift motor over mount studs, move forward than rotate 45 degrees and lift out
 
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 08:15 AM
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I pull the turbo and oil filter also
 
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 08:19 AM
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Diesels can burn up to a 50% mix of oil and fuel with out much issue


Blue smoke is most likely the turbo and not valve seals since the exhaust is pressurized.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 02:42 PM
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Well, here's more information. Today I did the blow-by test with the oil cap and It didn't blow the cap off. The vibration from the engine caused it to slide, but it was nowhere near being blown off.
Also, I drove it today. It drives pretty good, but when I get on it kinda hard there's an audible knock from what sounds like the passenger's side.
 
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