Fouled up big time
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
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From: SE Louisiana
Fouled up big time
2004.5 F-350
I just finished up engine, heads, studs & injectors. Rushed to try start, forgot to tighten ground to frame & strap on engine to cab. Turned key on, engine lights were all blinking on & off, then stayed on, tried to start, no joy, hitting on 1 cyl. Went to checking, noticed park & turn lights dim glow, that's when I realized what I did, fixed grounds & tried again. Connected Autoenginity, only code is P1000. run KOEO, OBD readiness not complete, run injector buzz, only can hear 1 inj. all buzz at key on (FICM self test). All other engine readings OK 48 v, HPO 1162 psi cranking ect.
Had spare FICM & PCM booth known to be good. Changed FICM, same thing. Changed PCM same thing. checked continuity between FICM & PCM all good, none shorted to other.
It seems that PCM is not communicating with FICM, but I am out of things to try. Any ideas.
I just finished up engine, heads, studs & injectors. Rushed to try start, forgot to tighten ground to frame & strap on engine to cab. Turned key on, engine lights were all blinking on & off, then stayed on, tried to start, no joy, hitting on 1 cyl. Went to checking, noticed park & turn lights dim glow, that's when I realized what I did, fixed grounds & tried again. Connected Autoenginity, only code is P1000. run KOEO, OBD readiness not complete, run injector buzz, only can hear 1 inj. all buzz at key on (FICM self test). All other engine readings OK 48 v, HPO 1162 psi cranking ect.
Had spare FICM & PCM booth known to be good. Changed FICM, same thing. Changed PCM same thing. checked continuity between FICM & PCM all good, none shorted to other.
It seems that PCM is not communicating with FICM, but I am out of things to try. Any ideas.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
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From: SE Louisiana
Finished checking FICM 32 pin plug, used test light this time, all
grounds, power & com are good, to PCM. Checked crank & cam sensors
resistance in range. Cam & crank sync=yes cranking. all 8 inj. buzz
on self test, but still only 1 with Autoenginity.
I don't know what else to check.
grounds, power & com are good, to PCM. Checked crank & cam sensors
resistance in range. Cam & crank sync=yes cranking. all 8 inj. buzz
on self test, but still only 1 with Autoenginity.
I don't know what else to check.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,097
Likes: 23
From: Kissimmee,Fla
You might not have oil up to the injectors yet. Did you fill the oil reserve under the oil cooler with oil before you put it in? If not you got a lot of cranking at 30 sec at a time and a cool down period for the starter. If you got sync,fuel and oil pressure,it will start
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
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From: SE Louisiana
Per4mance "If you got sync,fuel and oil pressure,it will start"
I be leave that, but I'm missing something.
Pre filled oil reservoir, spun with HP oil sensor & glow plugs removed.
Jumped fuel pump with lines off, connected lines & pumped more with
head plugs loose. oil & fuel systems full & clear.
62 psi fuel pressure
1192 psi HP oil
FICM 12.5 v & 48 v
Crank 156 rpm
sync yes
It should start, but it is only firing 1 cly.
WHAT am I missing?????
I be leave that, but I'm missing something.
Pre filled oil reservoir, spun with HP oil sensor & glow plugs removed.
Jumped fuel pump with lines off, connected lines & pumped more with
head plugs loose. oil & fuel systems full & clear.
62 psi fuel pressure
1192 psi HP oil
FICM 12.5 v & 48 v
Crank 156 rpm
sync yes
It should start, but it is only firing 1 cly.
WHAT am I missing?????
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 2
From: Bozeman MT
I could be way off here..... But I'm not....
If your self test of the injectors is working that is great. That indicates that the wiring is connected to each injector with the motor not turning.
Your numbers all look right and it should kick over.
If you are only getting fire on number one cylinder then that screams that your crank sensor is only reading one position, number 1 which is different from all the other spokes - reluctor wheel or tone wheel. Check it before you take the front cover off.
If your self test of the injectors is working that is great. That indicates that the wiring is connected to each injector with the motor not turning.
Your numbers all look right and it should kick over.
If you are only getting fire on number one cylinder then that screams that your crank sensor is only reading one position, number 1 which is different from all the other spokes - reluctor wheel or tone wheel. Check it before you take the front cover off.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
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From: SE Louisiana
Don't hear very well anymore (too many years working on screeming
Thermo King & Carrier refer units, in 70's no one talked about hearing
protection.)
Anyway a friend came by Sat. to help, first thing he said that only 1
inj. was buzzing on self test.
The GB rebuilt inj. that I have had for like 3 yrs.(sealed & pluged)
came with pre installed stiction. Pluged in heater & one by one the
inj. went to buzzing as it heated up, I endid up having to change 3.
RH side is tough to get to, I could not get into pulling cab again.
Wasted a lot of time thinking that grounds caused problem, when assuming
that injectors were all good (*** of me). Running perfect now.
Thanks to all who tried to help.
Thermo King & Carrier refer units, in 70's no one talked about hearing
protection.)
Anyway a friend came by Sat. to help, first thing he said that only 1
inj. was buzzing on self test.
The GB rebuilt inj. that I have had for like 3 yrs.(sealed & pluged)
came with pre installed stiction. Pluged in heater & one by one the
inj. went to buzzing as it heated up, I endid up having to change 3.
RH side is tough to get to, I could not get into pulling cab again.
Wasted a lot of time thinking that grounds caused problem, when assuming
that injectors were all good (*** of me). Running perfect now.
Thanks to all who tried to help.
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