2.9 no start
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
I keep thinking about the injectors only firing after releasing the key from the start position.
Try this very simple little test. Turn the key to the run position, remove the R/LB (red light blue stripe) wire from the starter relay take a pair of pliers or screw driver and jump 12 volts to that pin. Be sure it's in park if it's a slugomatic or neutral if it's a stick shift because it should crank and start when you do this
If it fires right up when you do this take a look at your start/ignition diagram. See how R/LB is spliced from the neutral safety switch to the starter relay & to the ignition module. The wire might be broken between the splice and the IM or the IM is bad.
As you can see on your diagram this simple test bypasses the start circuit in the IM.
Try this very simple little test. Turn the key to the run position, remove the R/LB (red light blue stripe) wire from the starter relay take a pair of pliers or screw driver and jump 12 volts to that pin. Be sure it's in park if it's a slugomatic or neutral if it's a stick shift because it should crank and start when you do this
If it fires right up when you do this take a look at your start/ignition diagram. See how R/LB is spliced from the neutral safety switch to the starter relay & to the ignition module. The wire might be broken between the splice and the IM or the IM is bad.
As you can see on your diagram this simple test bypasses the start circuit in the IM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Okay, your injectors are not losing power then. Next put your meter on the coil positive, and do the same. Then, put it on the "ICM Power Pin" (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...4.gif~original) and do the same there as well.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
With key on I'm getting 12 volts from the coil that drops down to 9 volts and the same for the IM
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Another thing that I'm gonna check first is the pins at the computer. Pin 58-59 ground out the injectors while pin 37 is the supply power
I want to test these and also recheck the pip
I believe it runs 12 volts but I want to make sure
I want to test these and also recheck the pip
I believe it runs 12 volts but I want to make sure
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Keep us updated
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Using a test light, I tested to see if there was constant power at the injector connector. I got constant power while cranking.
Next I tried the ground on the injector connector and got nothing while cranking.
I moved to the pins that connect to the computer. I used pin 37 as my power source and probed to pin 58 and 59 with the test light. If the bulb began to flash, then I would be pulsing to ground and I would have bad wires going to the injectors. Once again I didn't get any pulse.
I looked into the PIP again and didn't get anything from it either. I believe that my wires are good going to and from the injectors and that the pip is at fault.
Next I tried the ground on the injector connector and got nothing while cranking.
I moved to the pins that connect to the computer. I used pin 37 as my power source and probed to pin 58 and 59 with the test light. If the bulb began to flash, then I would be pulsing to ground and I would have bad wires going to the injectors. Once again I didn't get any pulse.
I looked into the PIP again and didn't get anything from it either. I believe that my wires are good going to and from the injectors and that the pip is at fault.
