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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:50 PM
  #61  
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Ok thank you for the confirmation

I'll check the pump connection voltage and the inertia voltage

I'll also pull the pump and check to see if there's any debris in the tank
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:52 PM
  #62  
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No need to pull the pump if the pressure & volume tests are ok.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 10:14 PM
  #63  
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What does your fuel pressure do after the truck is shut off? If it's falling to zero there are two possibilities, a leaking fuel injector flooding the engine and emptying the fuel rail or more likely the new pump has a faulty backflow valve amost completely draining the system back into the tank (multiple cycles of the key and starting fine makes me lean this way). New parts aren't always good parts nowadays unfortunately.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 10:31 PM
  #64  
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After cycling the pressure will slightly fall and then holds steady for a 3 minute period

I already checked the injectors and they don't leak
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 08:55 AM
  #65  
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We are 64 posts in. What was the original problem and what is the current problem?

If you can get a pressure gauge with a 'bleed' valve, you can run the pump and check delivery volume by bleeding the fuel into a container for a measure of time, then do math to determine delivery flow rate.
The pump should run longer than a second. I can mentally count to about 3 seconds for the pump run on my older 2.3 with two pumps.
I would also check the canister on the frame rail if you have one. It looks like a small oil filter, and has two lines on either side. Pressure in and out, return in and out. If you have one, they have internal check valves that can get broken over time, and can interfere with proper flow. Originally the assembly did have an internal filter, along with check valves. The later had not filter but still had the check valves. It was used as a buffer or reservoir to supply the high pressure pump when demand was high, and it would be refilled by the slower low pressure lift pump in the tank as the system 'caught up' to the high demand.
I do not know if they were still installed in the single pump systems.
tom
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 11:21 AM
  #66  
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The problem is the truck wont start unless ether is sprayed into the intake. I installed a new fuel pump, filter, FPR, and cleaned the injectors but I'm only getting 8 psi at the fuel rail. After cycling the key a few times the pump will build up to 36 psi and holds.

I don't have the canister.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 01:05 PM
  #67  
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I'm getting 12.1-12.2 volts on either side of the inertia switch
I'm getting 12 volts at the pump but it drops down to 7 volts after the relay goes off
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 01:40 PM
  #68  
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That's weird, the fuel pump should be at 0 volts when the relay turns off. Can you measure the voltage on the ground side of the fuel pump with the pump running?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 01:57 PM
  #69  
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With koeo
Red- ground: 6.82 volt
Black- ground: 0 volts
Yellow- ground: 8.0 volts
Orange- ground: 0 volts

During priming
Red- ground: 12.2
Black- ground: .01
Yellow- ground: 8.0
Orange- ground: 0.0
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 02:49 PM
  #70  
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I pulled the pump and took a quick look on the inside.
The tank was really clean but looking closer at the pump I noticed the little orange rubber piece that connects to the return line was missing.
I looked around the tank for a few minutes before concluding the peice never came with the part.

Do you guys think this piece matters?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 04:32 PM
  #71  
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If the black wire is the fuel pump ground, then that checks out. I think you fuel pump may be faulty.

You mentioned before that when you put your gauge on the return line and blocked it off, you only got 50 PSI or so. I've dead-headed fuel pumps before, and they'll easily make 80-90 PSI or so.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 05:59 PM
  #72  
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Here is a link to a electrical pictorial that might be helpful. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=15542
I've not had to mess with a Ford fuel pump, so don't know squat about what they're supposed to look like inside. Maybe those that do will chime in & enlighten us on what you think is missing & what the significance is.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 06:11 PM
  #73  
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I pulled the pump and installed the new one. I didn't have time to test the fuel pressure but I did try to start it and still no start.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 07:36 PM
  #74  
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I'd go and check the fuel pressure
 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 12:29 PM
  #75  
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I think the missing orange part is a cheap check valve that keeps the return line from draining when engine is off and tank is low. That doesn't help since you already replaced the pump.
 
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