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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 01:55 PM
  #91  
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Starting issue

So I have a 86 ranger 4x4 with a manual transmission just drove it today and went to start it back up and got a grinding noise from the starter and so I went and pulled the starter put to check it and the teeth where good so I went to test it and tried to crank the truck and got nothing but a click now from what I believe is the starter relay which is new and the starter is new all the relays are new so basically I'm kinda stuck on what els it could be I got a new battery clutch starter relays fuel pump ground wire starter relay and it's back to doing the same thing as when I first got the truck the only other thing I could think of would be the fuseable links somewhere if anyone's got any ideas let me know. I have tested the starter and that's working fine just not getting any power to anything anymore
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 02:09 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Derek Kruger
So I have a 86 ranger 4x4 with a manual transmission just drove it today and went to start it back up and got a grinding noise from the starter and so I went and pulled the starter put to check it and the teeth where good so I went to test it and tried to crank the truck and got nothing but a click now from what I believe is the starter relay which is new and the starter is new all the relays are new so basically I'm kinda stuck on what els it could be I got a new battery clutch starter relays fuel pump ground wire starter relay and it's back to doing the same thing as when I first got the truck the only other thing I could think of would be the fuseable links somewhere if anyone's got any ideas let me know. Thanks
I would test for voltage at the starter and see if there's a bad ground. The starter gets it's power directly from the relay and battery if I'm not mistaken. There should be at least 12 at the starter.

If you want to rule the starter it's self take it to an Autozone. They do starter testing and should be able to tell you what's wrong. In my old mans 1984 F-150 we had a similar issue. The starter shaft was loose/ wasn't straight so during engaging the starters teeth some times hit the side of the flywheel and grind on the side rather than on fly wheel teeth.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #93  
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JF:My father turned the key-engine cranked- no injectors fired.
My father released the key-engine cranked last revolution-injectors fired


There is 12v at the injectors from the wire loom.(key ON) The computer provides ground whenever it wants to, completing the circuit, so the internal coil of the injector gets current flow to open the valve & let out the fuel. No ground, no current, no squirt.
When you turn to off, the computer doesn't bias the transistors any more so they can go to ground, or close enough to power the injectors on the way out the door, so to speak.
There is a thing called a 'noid' light' that can be plugged into the injector harness which will blink as the injector is 'fired'. No blink==no squirty.
The computer 'knows' throttle position, and if it thinks the gas pedal is floored, it will not inject fuel, figuring you are trying to clear a 'flooded' condition. It lets you crank over with no more fuel added at WOT startup. If your TPS - throttle position sensor - is blinkey, it may fool the computer.
Do you have fuel pressure consistently? Need that for injectors to work. The pump should run for ~3-5 seconds to develop pressure from rest, then shut off. Cycling the key from OFF to ON should run the pump every time.
tom
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 04:49 PM
  #94  
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I understand how injectors work but I forgot about them grounding when turning the key.
The TPS is brand new but because I took the upper plenum off its disconnected.

The fuel pressure was the original problem but I've fixed that and am getting a good 34 psi that holds good too. The pump runs each time I turn the key.

It's getting the injectors to fire on start it the final problem.
I resolved all the codes.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 07:15 PM
  #95  
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Don't know if this has been mentioned or not & i'm not that familiar with the inner workings of the ignition module/IM, but the diagrams show the start pin of the ignition switch wired to one pin of the IM, release the key & the IM is now powered from the run pin of the ignition switch to a different pin of the IM.

I wonder if the start circuit in the IM might be whacked. If this was mine i'd grab my module tester & test the IM
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 08:24 PM
  #96  
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How would I check the IM?

According to the diagrams the injectors run right off the ECC relay and into the computer. The IM looks like it connects to the ECC but doesn't directly affect the injectors. If the IM was faulty it wouldn't fire the ECC which wouldn't activate the fuel pump and injectors.

The injectors could have the power going to them during cranking but the computer doesn't cycle the injectors until after the key is turned off.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 09:52 PM
  #97  
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Correct, the EEC relay sends 12 volts to the injectors. When the EEC/computer sees ignition pulses it knows the engine is being cranked or running & the EEC then turns the fuel pump on & pulses a ground to the injectors to fire them.

My WAG is if the start circuit in the IM isn't working the EEC wont know to turn the pump on or fire the injectors. This is just a guess on my part.

I have an Actron CP9087 that will quickly test an ignition module Or Autozone/Napa etc. can probably test it.

Are the spark plugs firing when you crank it?
Can you hear the fuel pump while you crank it?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 10:40 PM
  #98  
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The plugs fire like they're supposed to and the pump runs each time the key turns.

Remember the truck doesn't like to start. It will run with the help of ether.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 10:45 PM
  #99  
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It could be. It could also be a throttle position problem. Check to see if the fuel pumps keep running while cranking.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 10:50 PM
  #100  
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Are you getting injector power during cranking? unplug one and crank the truck with a Multi meter or test light to check.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 11:14 PM
  #101  
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The injectors are getting power because both injectors and fuel pump run directly off the ECC
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 11:30 PM
  #102  
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Oops! I accidentally confused the IM with the ignition switch.

I always figured the IM dealt only with sparks?
How does the computer read pulses to know when and where to fire each injector.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 01:12 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by John Faccinto Jr.
Oops! I accidentally confused the IM with the ignition switch.

I always figured the IM dealt only with sparks?
How does the computer read pulses to know when and where to fire each injector.
On my 87 2.9 ( yours is probably the same) 3 wires connect the IM to the computer this tells the computer when the spark plugs are firing so it can time when to squirt the injectors

Heres how the fuel pump works: turn the key one click and the computer grounds the fuel pump trigger wire for about 2 seconds and then times out. Turn the key to start & now the computer keeps the pump relay grounded until you turn the key off.

Are we having fun yet?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #104  
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I have a 3 pin from the IM to distributor and 6 pin from IM to computer.

Do you believe that it's possible for the IM to not recognize that the truck is trying to start while cranking, but is tricked into thinking that the truck is running after the ether is sprayed into the plenum? The ether would act as gas and would kick the engine faster which would make the IM think the engines running.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 01:09 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by John Faccinto Jr.
The injectors are getting power because both injectors and fuel pump run directly off the ECC
Get a meter and check it.
 
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