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I don't think it really matters which way it goes, but the end without grooves would be better pointing out, unless it's pitted. Check where the rope seal falls, I believe it will be where the pitting is.
Crankshaft is in. I plastigaged the mains and had a little less than 0.002 clearance. I hearted the crank gear in the oven and it just slid on. I used the correct size key from van pelt and it protruded just enough to catch the slinger. Slid the extension on then the pulley.
Pistons are next. I sized the rings and have 0.015 ring gaps which I think is fine.
it was late last night when I finished adjusting the valves but glad that is done. I did run into a snag on #5. The rod oil hole was in a different location and did not line up with the bearing. Off by about 1/4". I polled the guys on fordbarn and seemed the consensus was to cut a groove on the back of the bearing to get to the oil hole. I used a dremel and cut a very shallow impression for the oil flow. I had a spare # 5 rod with oil in correct location but was afraid to use it since it was not balanced with the rotating assembly.
Front timing cover on, water pumps installed, oil pump and screen in, and finally the oil pan.
On the oil pump, I had a hard time getting the torque wrench on the mounting bolt. I ended up using a crows foot on it to get it to 12 lbs, worked fine.
i am using a best gasket set and the seals had no instructions or spacer/knife so I didn't trim anything. Everything seemed to compress and seal on both ends.
I have a couple of spots I need to touch up with paint on the bottom of the engine. What can I use to prep the block where oil has been? Soapy water on a sponge?
getting to the point where I need to move the engine off the stand and get on a pallet for the remaining bolt ons and initial firing. The aeight is starting to build. What have you guys used as supports for the front?
I would definitely put the heads on while it's on the stand, and stop there. Torquing the head bolts is s-o-o-o much easier there, just arrange your wrench so you aren't putting a tipping force on the stand. Seal up the intake deck and exhaust ports. Are you lifting from the intake holes or the exhaust ports, or -?-
You can stack 4x4's to support the feet on the water pumps. At the rear you almost have to make a U-shaped stand of heavy angle iron bolted to the BH holes.
Putting the flywheel on when it's in the truck is a lot easier, along with the clutch, IMO.
Went back and checked the valves one more time and adjusted a few that were about a 000 too loose. Set it at top dead center on #1, ready to mount the heads. Added the exhaust manifolds and torqued those down to about 23lbs after coating the threads with high temp antiseize.
I cleaned the deck and used grease on all 4 surfaces on each head install. For the head bolts I used permatex aviation and torqued to 45lbs. For the oil pan I used hi tack on the pan and grease on the block with a little the right stuff at the front and rear seals. Using 160 thermostats and dropped those in last.
Ran out of bolts on the starter plate and had to stop. Everything is sealed off, but need to circle back on a few minor things like tweaking the steel fuel line to not be so tight and an oil canister lid bolt gasket.
I need to work on the air cleaner clamp as it's still a little loose even after tightening.
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