First off happy Christmas and new year. Now down to the question in hand. I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you are says no no **** it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs..lmao..my question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs? Also, anyone know where I can get at a decent price?

 

The easiest way to see is if you have 3 lines running to your hub. One will be the brake line, the second will be you vacuum line for your auto locking hubs and the third will be your ABS sensor line. The ABS sensor line runs up to a connector in your wheel well.

As far as hubs, it doesn't matter really if you haven't got ABS, the extra sensor wire can be tucked out of the way or removed completely, as long a the hole that is left in your hub assembly is covered. The hole used for the ABS sensor is good for adding grease to your hub assembly and Riff Raff diesel make an adapter that makes this process a lot easier.

As far as manufacturers I would stick with either Timken or OEM. I have tried the cheaper alternatives, as have many here and they don't last. I got my Timkens off of Amazon, but I get a lot of stuff off there. I believe AutoZone has pretty good prices on the Timkens also......

In short most people buy the ABS optioned hubs for the above mentioned reason, regardless of whether they actually have ABS or not on the front wheels as they usually a bit cheaper for some reason.

 

Most Hubs ship with the ABS Sensor. I assume to reduce costs of manufacturing two different products. Just cut the wires. And, you may want to get four new mounting bolts. They can be a nightmare to remove and put on the other Hub without a Torch and some time. I think $17 at the Dealership. No one caries them.

 

I received new studs with both the Timken and the "cheaper" hubs I ordered, so you may want to verify that they don't have them before ordering more, if time permits. They both also came with the yellow o-ring also, just for your info.....

 

Those front ABS sensors with the pigtail wiring retail for $175.00 alone at the Ford dealer. Something to think about before cutting that wire. I had to replace just the sensor on one of my front hubs. I bought it on eBay, new in a Motorcraft box. But I probably would have considered a new sensor without a box, as long as the seller would be willing to put an ohm meter across the leads and tell me the reading before I bid.

 

Great Point. Probably should remove the Sensor and list it on FleaBay to recoup some money.

Haven't done Hubs in quit a while. So, I looked up a F/Hub. Motorcraft is PROUD of their Hub with Sensor!

FORD:
Hub w/ABS 99.5-07MY: $ 488.90 ea.
Additional Parts Necessary (No Kit Available):
F81Z-4A322-AA $ 7.15 ea.
4C3Z-1K106-AA $ 30.35 ea.
F81Z-1107-AA $ 5.60ea. x 4: $22.40
F81Z3B458AA $ 25.00

$574 each side!!!!!! WOW!

Green Store Auto Parts $300.00 Less ($154.00 less than I can get it for with a 25% discount)
MasterPro® Bearing/Seal-Wheel Bearing And Hub Assembly Hub: $211.99
Wheel Studs Only - *No Mounting Studs*
No O-Ring
F81Z-4A322-AA $ 7.15 ea.
4C3Z-1K106-AA $ 30.35 ea.
F81Z-1107-AA $ 5.60ea. x 4: $22.40
F81Z3B458AA $ 25.00

$297.03 - Still a good chunk of change!

I'll be going aftermarket for sure.

Some say to put an ounce of oil in the EFOF Nipple every couple years to prevent rust and failure. Don't know for certain. Never done it. Prices like this, I may try it!

Someone mentioned AdvanceAuto. I know they're buying everything up: Auto-Zone, NAPA, ALLDATA, Mitchell, and few others. Just about all the aftermarket shops around here use them as they've closed the NAPA's and Auto-Zones, only other is a Pep-Boys and a Green Store. Signs of the Times I guess.

 

And by the time one realizes that the hub needs replacing, the stub axle is usually galled, and if separating the stub axle for replacement, the U Joint cross will also need to be replaced.

And, even if the unit bearing was caught ontime, leaving the stub axle in reusable shape, the knuckle seal will likely be loose and rubbing metal to metal. Ford wants $63.67 for that knuckle seal (F81Z-3254-CB). And we know that the dust seal is separated, another $28.75 (F81Z-1S175-HCA).

So make that $670 per side, and that's WITHOUT the stub axle and cross. And it doesn't include the locking hub, if it crunched due to a wavering axle from the bearing going bad. Nor the rotor if toasted, nor the new pads. All of this expense and carnage due to one little inch wide drawn cup roller bearing that Ford started using 50 years ago. (C6TZ-3123-A)

 

Wow you guys have put some thought into this...well I have researched and found a SKF hub assembly with shipping for around 250.00....everything seems intact for right now.. I will be replacing the passenger side in a few weeks.. it is not my daily driver and just noticed the grind the other day.. so fingers crossed it is only the hub.

 

Bumping this thread to ask how you get the two main parts of the hub separated? I have the nut off and have tried prying, re-installing the hub nut and striking it with a hammer, I also removed two studs and put bolts through the holes and tightened them against the larger part, preloading the two assemblies, then partially re-installing the hub nut and striking it sharply with a hammer. No luck!

What is the secret? I cannot get past this point!

 

SORRY! I managed to get this into the wrong thread! I'm looking for the correct thread now to re-post.