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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Squeaky belt

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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #31  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by oldbird1965






This was mine, there are no compressed parts that I remember.
woah yea that's toast. I just tried a oil wrench couldn't get enough bite I dought I'll get a strap on it. Also tried jamming a screw driver in but nothing really to bite
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 04:56 PM
  #32  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by kyle j
woah yea that's toast. I just tried a oil wrench couldn't get enough bite I dought I'll get a strap on it. Also tried jamming a screw driver in but nothing really to bite
if I replace the whole compressor and I don't use the Ac am i right to assume it won't harm the new pump if there's leaks in the system? Also can I remove the lines connected to it without getting the whole system evacuated?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #33  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by kyle j
if I replace the whole compressor and I don't use the Ac am i right to assume it won't harm the new pump if there's leaks in the system? Also can I remove the lines connected to it without getting the whole system evacuated?
@knottyrope
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 06:48 PM
  #34  
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If you remove the lines you will loose the refrigerant. Any time the system is opened, you should pull a vacuum on the system to get all moisture out. Use an impact wrench to remove the center bolt, hit it with short, quick blasts. It sounds like the system is low on refrigerant if the clutch won't lock the clutch with the key in the run position, and the control set to air. If it has a low charge the low pressure switch won't let the clutch kick in. Usually the center part of the clutch has threads in it to pull that part off the shaft. Remove the center bolt, and thread a larger bolt back in the center. the bolt will hit the shaft and force the center part of the clutch off the shaft. Behind the center part that you just removed will be a snap ring holding the outer part of the clutch with the bearing on the nose of the compressor, which is lightly pressed on. The magnet is behind the part you have just removed.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 08:06 PM
  #35  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by farmert
If you remove the lines you will loose the refrigerant. Any time the system is opened, you should pull a vacuum on the system to get all moisture out. Use an impact wrench to remove the center bolt, hit it with short, quick blasts. It sounds like the system is low on refrigerant if the clutch won't lock the clutch with the key in the run position, and the control set to air. If it has a low charge the low pressure switch won't let the clutch kick in. Usually the center part of the clutch has threads in it to pull that part off the shaft. Remove the center bolt, and thread a larger bolt back in the center. the bolt will hit the shaft and force the center part of the clutch off the shaft. Behind the center part that you just removed will be a snap ring holding the outer part of the clutch with the bearing on the nose of the compressor, which is lightly pressed on. The magnet is behind the part you have just removed.
thanks for the reply, Finaly got it off with a second pair of hands and some good old merchanical advantage. Is it nessassary to replace the inner clutch coil? Only asking cause that would require buying more tools (pully pulled and press) and I'm on a budget right now
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 08:08 PM
  #36  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by kyle j
thanks for the reply, Finaly got it off with a second pair of hands and some good old merchanical advantage. Is it nessassary to replace the inner clutch coil? Only asking cause that would require buying more tools (pully pulled and press) and I'm on a budget right now
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 08:22 PM
  #37  
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I'd replace the coil, as I have had them get weak on my tractor, and not pull and hold the clutch together. The coil is not that tight on the nose of the compressor. A couple of screw drivers behind the coil should lever it off. A dead blow hammer should tap it back on.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 08:27 AM
  #38  
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I have replace compressors before and not attach the coil wire until I could get it vacuumed out.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #39  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Got it all back together and still sqeeking loud I'm at a loss . Figured I had it norrowed down for sure since when I sprayed the Ac pully with wd the sqeeking went away for several seconds then came back. Any ideas?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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From: Bahstun
maybe your pump is bad?


Did you spray the pulley or the belt or both?


Some squeaks can be a pain to find
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 04:36 PM
  #41  
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From: Cape Cod Ma
Originally Posted by knottyrope
maybe your pump is bad?


Did you spray the pulley or the belt or both?


Some squeaks can be a pain to find
went on a hunch and threw my old serpentine belt on and so far so good noise is gone! Wounder why my new dayco belt that I put on less than 7 months ago was making that noise? Didn't notice and major defects other than it was a bit looser than the old one
 
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 07:36 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by kyle j
went on a hunch and threw my old serpentine belt on and so far so good noise is gone! Wounder why my new dayco belt that I put on less than 7 months ago was making that noise? Didn't notice and major defects other than it was a bit looser than the old one
Loose belts squeal
 
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 12:55 AM
  #43  
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I have the SD Idler and once a year I have to replace the belt because it starts to squeak...
 
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #44  
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Maybe one of your pulleys is not aligned with the others causing the belt to wear out and start to squeel.
 
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