Freshly re-assembled truck, first start, Help?
#1
Freshly re-assembled truck, first start, Help?
I'm just wrapping up a major truck overhaul. One thing lead to another, and I've built a brand-new used 16 year old truck. I have a freshly powdercoated crew cab long box frame, a texas body, take-off bed.....and an engine that is running rough.
The 7.3L, auto trans, and transfer case all remained connected to each other. I swapped them from one frame to the next, put all my wire harnesses in the new cab, swapped the long box gas fuel system for diesel, etc. The engine lit right up, but seems to be missing. My initial thought is that it was eating up some air in the fuel lines, but I have about 10 minutes of run time on it and it hasn't cleared up. I'll be hooking up to it with AE tonight, just wondering if anyone has some thoughts on what might be the issue.
the only 'test' I could really do on it last night was to stand on the throttle, wide open. The RPM's would slowly climb to about 2k, and then drop off.
Thanks for your help in advance!
The 7.3L, auto trans, and transfer case all remained connected to each other. I swapped them from one frame to the next, put all my wire harnesses in the new cab, swapped the long box gas fuel system for diesel, etc. The engine lit right up, but seems to be missing. My initial thought is that it was eating up some air in the fuel lines, but I have about 10 minutes of run time on it and it hasn't cleared up. I'll be hooking up to it with AE tonight, just wondering if anyone has some thoughts on what might be the issue.
the only 'test' I could really do on it last night was to stand on the throttle, wide open. The RPM's would slowly climb to about 2k, and then drop off.
Thanks for your help in advance!
#2
#3
Have u ever heard engine run before?
Could it be (if you are still in Michigan) sick injectors? I had an 01 with bad ones and would run terrible for a long time when it was really cold. Really cold down here is probably shorts weather up there. It may help to try it after block heater has run for a while. It would make a difference with mine.
Could it be (if you are still in Michigan) sick injectors? I had an 01 with bad ones and would run terrible for a long time when it was really cold. Really cold down here is probably shorts weather up there. It may help to try it after block heater has run for a while. It would make a difference with mine.
#4
For reasons I can't explain AE doesn't want to work for me tonight. I'll need to get some tech support in the morning.
My issue seemed like lack of fuel. Without AE I resorted to old school diagnostics. Fuses were good, checked voltage at fuel pump, nothing. Got to thinking about Ford's inertial fuel cut off switch.....i reset it and bam, it runs like a champ!
Next issue, the transmission blinky light started blinking about a quarter mile down the drive. I returned, checked fluid, added, and it is still blinky. It's really cold and icy here, and the truck had been apart since early October. Any chance the computer is seeing the rear wheel slip with respect to the front wheels and thinking the transmission is faulty?
The engine, transmission, and case are all from my old truck and worked great when removed. The axles are from the donor truck's
Thanks again!
My issue seemed like lack of fuel. Without AE I resorted to old school diagnostics. Fuses were good, checked voltage at fuel pump, nothing. Got to thinking about Ford's inertial fuel cut off switch.....i reset it and bam, it runs like a champ!
Next issue, the transmission blinky light started blinking about a quarter mile down the drive. I returned, checked fluid, added, and it is still blinky. It's really cold and icy here, and the truck had been apart since early October. Any chance the computer is seeing the rear wheel slip with respect to the front wheels and thinking the transmission is faulty?
The engine, transmission, and case are all from my old truck and worked great when removed. The axles are from the donor truck's
Thanks again!
#5
I've never seen the blinking light on the transmission, and I drive on snow all the time. Our era of vehicle didn't have the computing power to "register" traction slip like many modern vehicles do. You might be having issues with your transmission, which is no surprise with a 4R100 and plowing.
#6
The truck drove itself into the barn to get disassembled, and everything was working tip-top. While the truck was apart the only 'work' I did to the drivetrain was swap out the oil pan, change the exhaust manifolds, and replace the turbo pedestal with the non-EBPV type. I do own a plow, but I only plow my own driveway, take my time, only plow in 4-low, and haven't been hooked up to it since last winter. I'm certain plowing wont extend the lifespan of the tranny, but I can't find a direct relationship to this issue.
I did find some references to a 20amp fuse in the 23 position being one guy's issue. I'll certainly have a look at that tonight.
Since my drivetrain went into a new frame, and a new body was set on top of it all I'm thinking there might be something related to this big switch-a-roo I made......I just can't quite figure out what!
I did find some references to a 20amp fuse in the 23 position being one guy's issue. I'll certainly have a look at that tonight.
Since my drivetrain went into a new frame, and a new body was set on top of it all I'm thinking there might be something related to this big switch-a-roo I made......I just can't quite figure out what!
#7
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#8
Less heat build-up in the tranny. It'll commonly shift into second gear, flushing the hot fluids. And you have 2.72x less direct stress on the tranny.
I say this like I know what exactly is going on inside a slushbox, but I promise I don't. I will say that I was told by a very experienced Ford tranny tech buddy that I should plow in low range, and it would make my tranny live longer. Seems to make sense to me. And it's no harder to drive in 4-lo than 4-hi
I say this like I know what exactly is going on inside a slushbox, but I promise I don't. I will say that I was told by a very experienced Ford tranny tech buddy that I should plow in low range, and it would make my tranny live longer. Seems to make sense to me. And it's no harder to drive in 4-lo than 4-hi
#9
#10
Still getting transmission error!
I plugged into the truck last night with AE and cleared all the faults
I took it for a drive, and logged
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure.
I also had a 'no response from module' for these items
Anti-lock brakes
Airbag
Overhead Trip Computer
Park Aid
Enhanced Powertrain
I cleared them, went for another short drive, and the same ones showed up.
My engine/transmission/transfercase/wire harness/PCM are all from the 2001 truck. The rear axle is from a 2002 V10 truck. Any chance the tone ring in the rear axle is different than the 2001 PSD axle? At this point that's about the only reason I can see for my transmission light to flash.
What's a good combination of parameters to log with AE to figure out what is causing the tranny error?
I took it for a drive, and logged
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure.
I also had a 'no response from module' for these items
Anti-lock brakes
Airbag
Overhead Trip Computer
Park Aid
Enhanced Powertrain
I cleared them, went for another short drive, and the same ones showed up.
My engine/transmission/transfercase/wire harness/PCM are all from the 2001 truck. The rear axle is from a 2002 V10 truck. Any chance the tone ring in the rear axle is different than the 2001 PSD axle? At this point that's about the only reason I can see for my transmission light to flash.
What's a good combination of parameters to log with AE to figure out what is causing the tranny error?
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