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^^^^^ If it's like my '85, it's a craptastic design. (They went to a better design, with the switch on the hydraulic pushrod, in later years). The early design switch can actually "overshoot", whereby if you push the pedal all the way down, the one contact will pass the other and the switch will open again. Try this just for S&G - hold the key in the start position, and slowly let up on the clutch pedal. See if at some point it engages. It's supposed to be self-adjusting, but it can still do this. I thought I'd fiddled with mine and gotten it not to do it, but it's doing it again. Real PITA holding the pedal in just the right position to engage the starter.
Why a ground wire?
I would think all the switches are doing is passing the power thru them.
The way I see it wired you have a switch so the "starter" push button does not have power? Why? Just don't push the botton.
What are you using to send/stop power to the coil to make it run?
I just don't get why you want a "push to start" button. I hate it on the new cars, old school give me a key to turn!
When I wired up my drag car I first drew it out on paper so I could follow each part from start to end.
Oh I am using the in column key as the main power & key to "turn to start" like normal. I have 1 toggle switch to turn on gauge and 1 tail light as needed.
I also run an electric fuel pump thru a relay and a master cut off switch to KILL ALL POWER as per rules because the batt is in the trunk.
Dave ----
The only reason I can see to have a ground running to the switch is for illumination if the switch has a light inside. But it looks to me like the black and red wires are connected to the same terminal on the switch. That's a dead short.
I still think you'd be farther ahead by tracking down the original problem and fixing that. Why not provide us with more information so we can help you test it and find the cause?
The main toggle switch has a led on it . Probably why theres a ground wire . And the problem to start is i got the truck from an auction with no keys . I drilled the old cylinder out and replaced it. Turned the key accessories came on and went to crank it and nothing. I can still take 2 screw drivers and jump the starter solenoid so idk if its the actual switch itself
Gary has the 1981 EVTM posted on his garagemahal website.
All the wire diagrams are there with colors and connectors labeled.
Chris has suggested in this thread and the ignition trouble thread that the wrong wire is routed to the starter relay.
You might want to compare what you have to the factory diagrams.