Okay so im having trouble with my ignition switch . I dont feel like getting crazy replacing parts cause ive already spent too much according to my wife haha so i went ahead and got a toggle switch push button start .
It has main power switch, the push button and 3 accessory switches . Can someone please help me with the wiring . I can still use the keys for accessories so what needs to go to main power switch and push button thanks

 

I hope you kept the receipt.

Easiest and cheapest way will be to return what you bought and get the proper parts. Used parts from the junkyard will help keep costs down.

 

Really not the answer im looking for. I know it can be done cause ive seen it. thanks though

 

How about I just send you $32 for a genuine Motorcraft replacement?:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW.../dp/B000C5DTOC

That would be WAY easier than trying to 'splain what it would take to retrofit an aftermarket ignition switch.

*************************************************

Now had you said, "Difficulty be d***ed, I have my heart steadfastly set on an aftermarket ignition switch," here's how I'd have responded:

How about I just send you $32 for a genuine Motorcraft replacement?:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW.../dp/B000C5DTOC

That would be WAY easier than trying to 'splain what it would take to retrofit an aftermarket ignition switch.

*************************************************

All seriousness aside, this would be a huge project requiring lots of headscratching, squinty looks, and the precision application of foul language. The stock switch has five poles (separate circuits) all actuated at once. Three of the poles will switch battery power to various circuits. The other two poles will switch a ground to some other circuits. Unless your aftermarket switch has five poles, you're going to have to do some very creative wiring to make it all work.

I don't mean this in any hardnose sense, but if you have to ask how to wire up a project like this, it's going to be way over your head. I am a professional electronics technician and have wired several vehicles from scratch, designing and building up new harnesses, etc. Even with that background, I'd rather go on a date with Rosie O'Donnell than try to retrofit an aftermarket switch (likely single pole) to an existing wiring harness.

 

I agree with NotEnoughTrucks2014 (don't know your real name) and Karl... explaining this kind of thing can be a really big deal and can take a lot of time, ignition switches are fairly complicated.

Chinese-made aftermarket ignition switches are ~$10 at the parts store.

But is your problem with the ignition switch? Or maybe the clutch/NSS? Or maybe something else?

 

Got the hint!

 

This. My clutch safety switch went out and my truck wouldn't even attempt to start. Turns out I just broke the plastic linkage, so I just reach under the dash and activate the switch by hand to start it until I get another switch... I consider it a redneck anti-theft

 

i had the same set-up that OP is talking about when i bought my 89. i hated it.
as soon as i figured out how, i put it back to stock.

 

Where is the clutch safety switch . And does my truck have one if its manual

 

Is your truck a manual? If so, it should have the clutch safety switch. It should be on the clutch pedal arm, underneath the dashboard.

And, one thing you should do in the future is let us know what equipment you're dealing with in your first post.

 

I would refer you to posts 16 & 18 of your "1981 ignition trouble" thread but I guess it's pointless.

 

Ill take a look at the pedal

 

According to the OP's "About Me" profile, has a 1981 F250. There was no clutch safety switch installed until 1984.

E4TZ-11A152-B .. Clutch Safety Switch (Motorcraft SW-1909): 1984/86 F150/350 & Bronco.

 

Well, the first lesson is that starting a new thread really does not change anything.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-trouble.html

If you have a tilt column, I'd bet Franklin2 got it right in post 7. It does sound like your problem is more of a mechanical issue in that you cannot move the switch into the crank position. You already have replaced the switch and I understand your frustration, but it's not always an electrical problem.

 

Oh, yeah, this one... with what looks like the coolant temperature wire (red/white-stripe) connected on the starter solenoid where the red/light-blue-stripe wire is supposed to be.... THAT would keep the starter solenoid from activating the starter motor....