im in need of some serious tech help here with my 99 7.3l i just need true and honest help. my work truck is down and funds are low. Here is the problem its very confusing. truck started one cold morning no problem let warm up drove 20 miles. shut off needed a jump got her started left and lost everything on dash. no clue if battery light was on or not sry. well got it towed to a safe place then on rd key on truck dead at that point. Went took alternator and starter o have tested. Alternator bad, starter good but both replaced. brought back installed after that charged batts was able to get some power to try to start truck. would not go took batts to have tested main passenger side bad driver good but both replaced. got everything done and went too start. just spins but no fire. realized no WAIT TO START LIGHT So that tells me no responds from pcm. i've checked fuses in motor and under dash. been too cold too work on it. but mean while something is drawing bad cause it killed my two new batts in 45 mins and fried the 110 gfi outlet trying to start in start mode on battery charger. could this pcm be causing this drain? is the pcm even bad? what where do i look? what could be the problem? can i unhook pcm and check for draw? or will it not tell me crap because computer is not hooked up? can i disconnect the altanator and starter and everything to check for draw? but im affraid to even charge batts cause as soon as i even charge em something will kill em so why even hook up the pos to batt. please if anyone has clues and steps please help

 

No way dead batts in 45 mins something would be glowing red or burning...not 2 new batteries. check connections and stop buying stuff you don't need..I can see why money is low...holy crap. keep the batts charged in cold weather or you'll freeze and kill them for good.. Get someone to help you who has some experience...meter/ etc.

 

as for batts and alt and starter was all free so no money spent. but everytime we hook up the pos on batt something seems to draw im no expert too the testing and using meter. but we know the alt was bad and a battery i have not touched this truck in days just way to cold in a open parking lot. but when we did have everything full of batt and stuff we had lots of power. but no start the wait too start light was not on. we checked all the fuses no bad fuses only thing we did not change was relays. i dont know how to test em. cause my fuel bowl has shorted out yrs ago unplugged and fixed fuse left it alone since. we did find a bad wire broken off the starter solenoid we fixed it still no wait to start or glow system. as soon as weather breaks and i can get this towed to our shop my buddy n i will be going through the truck. but at this time i dont know why its doing what its doing. i think n feel there is more too it then i can handle. n i dont understand the wiring and how things work but no funds for ford or a shop too fix it. so its left to me trying or it sits and i loose money. i was gonna bring my laptop down to truck and see if my computer will scan it with my ae tool. but batts are dead. we were trying to start it in start mode on charger it blew the 110 gfi unit at pole. cant hook up poss cause it will peg the charger on two amp. i'm just trying to be as honest here with what ive done. every friend i kno says its the solenoid he says it shorted out and its drawing but no clue if it is. same with glow plug relay says that could of shorted out but again no clue. or even the pcm could have shorted out.

 

Update. Here as of today we eliminated the draw we can now charge the battery s without the the needle pegging out on the charger. Before we could not. We disconnected the live hot on the glow plug relay. So does this mean that the glow plug relay shorted out to stay closed? We checked all fuses in motor and in truck and even swapped the big blower relay with the PCM relay. But we now have power to truck no wait to start still. Should it matter if glow relay is even hooked up for a wait too start light? I went under truck and fuel pump is not kicking on. Now I have more data here. So I hope I can get more helpful information. What's the next test I can check I think later I'll bring my ae tool down and see if I can talk too the pcm Thanks.

 

First, get both batteries fully charged before doing any testing. I do mean fully, it will take a while if they are fully drained.
Then, check fuse #30, see if it is good.
You said you disconnected the large positive supply to the glow plug relay. With that disconnected, you can check to see if there is resistance between the two large terminals. With the key off for more than two minutes, you should not have any resistance or continuity between the two larger terminals.
Also, have a look at this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...pr-system.html

 

Hey I was able to charge them a bit today Not fully yet as i will continue later weekend between the cold and snow im busy. But today my friend tested one batt and it was close the other needed more time.

Before all this we were getting DRAIN and charging batts was no go cause of the draw.

I'll let buddy know about checking the two big post on relay when we can get together. but today we checked all fuses because i've had the fuel prob before. its been disconnected for years now so i know what that fuse does.


i have not looked at that link yet but i wanted to discuss and try to understand the system but i had to disconnect the main 12 volt on glow relay cause it was killing my batts. with being unhooked now im able to charge batts and get power to dash like door bell,inside light, and gagues but no wait to start. i even removed my ts6 tuner still no wait to start. even went under truck to hear fuel pump again no pump.. i huessi just understand how our system works with the pcm and glow and fuel? i thought if pcm is dead why would i get door lights gauges on dash when key turn to run but not start.

another question if i was to replace glow relay and i hook up new relay will i still have same problwm w the 12 volt being hooked? or did i fix the problem?

i dont see no chk light on dash at this time i will run my ae scan tool soon now that i have power too the truck. cause i guess i've heard if ae scan tool does not talk to pcm its dead. i guess i dont know


what other related things could make the no wait too start light come on if all fuses are good that i can see? is it just the pcm? or others?


all the help will be greated and thanks too all i'll update as i do and go

 

thanks for the well needed info in the link. i will test and will swap my relay tomorrow i'll keep ya posted on my findings and results. see i did not understand the gp relay needed to work to get a wait too start light and to work with the pcm. thanks for the well needed info. iv e been searching for days on how things work.

 

being what ive been told on that link u gave me my buddy thinks if this is 100% correct he thinks my alternator took a splat cause it was bad to begin with then it ran my batterys down then killed my batt cause one was bad then somehow it killed my relay. thats what we are thinking we shall find out when i swap and test this gp relay. cause i do have a spear here im looking at it. i'll keep everyone posted

 

What you don't want to do is keep throwing parts at it. There is systematic troubleshooting that will lead you to your problem so you can fix it properly with the least amount of money spent on parts.

 

Hey guys I've been plowing snow for the last two days so I have not been able to even look at my truck. I will update with this when I can check into it. This morning in the dark maybe half hr I was able to try to replace the GPR with a cheap after market used Gpr I found at home. The gpr that was on truck with the terminal that's 12volts unhooked gave me signs of activity. When tested. Also draw too batts. This new one does not but still no wait to start. That's all the new info I have At this time.

 

Guys I brought my laptop to truck tried too see if I can get any DTC using my ae tool. It won't connect I think my PCM is bad. Any way to make 100%, sure before I spend 500-900 on a PCM????????

 

I would start checking fuses, like fuse #30 mentioned above. Use a multi-meter and measure voltages at the fuses, both sides.

 

It appears you have two separate threads going on this. I would just focus on the one in the 7.3 forum. Having two threads just causes confusion.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...need-help.html

 

yes i do for some reason mobile app and computer web is different my truck is not where i live its 20 miles from so when with truck im using my phone then some reason it was moved not sure what that did then when im home im on computer.

As for my truck i';ve stopped trying to figure it out because 1st i cant NOT PULL CODES from PCM.. i'm using a good scanner its the ae scan tool and now i cant pull any data from pcm. So im not sure... now