guys/gals im in need of some serious tech help here with my 99 7.3l i don't want bs i just need true and honest help. my work truck is down and funds are low. Here is the problem its very confusing. truck started one cold morning no problem let warm up drove 20 miles. shut off needed a jump got her started left and lost everything on dash. no clue if battery light was on or not sry. well got it towed to a safe place then on rd key on truck dead at that point. Went took alternator and starter o have tested. Alternator bad, starter good but both replaced. brought back installed after that charged batts was able to get some power to try to start truck. would not go took batts to have tested main passenger side bad driver good but both replaced. got everything done and went too start. just spins but no fire. realized no WAIT TO START LIGHT So that tells me no responds from pcm. i've checked fuses in motor and under dash. been too cold too work on it. but mean while something is drawing bad cause it killed my two new batts in 45 mins and fried the 110 gfi outlet trying to start in start mode on battery charger. could this pcm be causing this drain? is the pcm even bad? what where do i look? what could be the problem? can i unhook pcm and check for draw? or will it not tell me crap because computer is not hooked up? can i disconnect the altanator and starter and everything to check for draw? but im affraid to even charge batts cause as soon as i even charge em something will kill em so why even hook up the pos to batt. please if anyone has clues and steps please help

 

You can unhook the negative leads on the batteries and charge them that way.

I would check the starter solenoid, the GPR, and the AIH solenoid, to see if they are making connection when they're not suppose to. I would also check the fuses again. The one going to the heater in the fuel bowl is known to blow, which also sends power to the PCM.

 

Thread moved to the '99-03 7.3L forum.

 

Is the alternator getting hot? Could be bad even when new, not the first one. And unplug the fuel bowl heater, replace that fuse, #30 I believe in your truck, leave it unplugged and try to start. Charge those batteries, never like to leave new batteries uncharged for long. Also check the starter and see if it hot when not running. I still have my stock starter with 198K on it, not changing it unless I really have to. I don't believe I ever got a light with mine when the alternator went out. The gauge only shows volts in the system, not charging or not.

 

I would start with the heater/fuel pump/PMC fuse.
On my truck, this is fuse #30 under the hood.
I would disconnect the wires from the fuel bowl (leave them disconnected), replace #30 (do not check it, replace it) and crank it to see if it will start.

 

I like how Dave said don't check it replace it. Good since, there have been a few that check good but have been bad. That's why he said that.

 

Different application but got caught on this recently. Would show continuity when meter checked but did not actually carry current. No visible damage to it either. But bad.


On my truck, it was one of the maxi fuses in the underhood box when the fuel bowl heater went out. Not common but what it was.

 

Yes, that's right, and lets be honest with ourselves, fuses are cheap $$.
Too easy and cheap to make a big deal over the question of... is the old one good or bad?
Buy a new one and install it.

Feonix1123, get us an update soon.

 

I am wondering if the GPR may be stuck closed also? This may explain the excessive draw on the batteries?

 

You can test that by using a Multi-meter. With the batteries hooked up and the key off for over two minutes, you should have 12VDC on one large post and nothing on the other.

 

. I have not checked the starter solenoid I did replace a used after market gpr this morning just for ****s n giggles. Not sure even if it works but does not draw.. My results was no draw to batts. Which is good cause old I had draw. But still no wait to start light or power to my glow plug toggle switch inside cab. As for the AIH solenoid. Is this my intake heater relay cause when trying today I heard it click with key on seeing if wts light comes on.

 

The fuel bowl heater has been disconnected for 3 years due to a blown fuel with number 30 fuse I found out when my truck shut down years ago. Never had it hooked up since. Again we checked all fuses since I've worked in at. I'll take a look at others u asked. Thanks

 

Yes, that is it.

 

Thanks i hope i can get more help with this issue thanks aqnd sorry if i added it wrong place i dont understand these forms i just know they are packed with tons of data and a million nice people that help others with related problems thank you all guys...

 

Ok as of AIH solenoid Im not sure if its working or dead as of yet is there ways to test and check? Same with starter solenoid??