truck does start if u feed it starter fluid too truck and jump the relay.

 

I would strongly advise against starter fluid, ESPECIALLY if you are jumping the solenoid for on the GPR! Starting fluid and glow plugs is a recipe for disaster, unless of course you feel like trying to put various parts of your engine back in after they are scattered across your driveway with a boom......

Have you tried any of the steps suggested? Part swapping on these things, on a whim, can get expensive fast.....

 

If your using starter fluid and jumping the GPR I'd guess the glow plugs aren't working. If you left the GPR jumped to long in the pass, you burned out the glow plugs.

 

Did you also check fuse 27?
Did you replace fuses just to replace them or because they were blown?
Did you check for voltage at both sides of each fuse?

Be very cautious with back feeding voltage direct from the battery. You may do more harm than good. You are also removing the fuse protection. If some is shorted, you are risking a fire.

As others have said, stay away from the starter fluid.

 

My buddy and I have been all.over the this truck checking wires checking and replacing fuses. It's weird if u jump the big post on gp relay to very small post. Which should be hot when key is turned on. The wait to start light comes on but. My toggle switch inside too turn on glow plug does not light. I have seen it go on go off but have not seen it stay on. And u must keep spraying stuff in intake to fire her. It seems like something is not turning every thing on. And truck will not start or try with starter fluid if relay is not jumped. I do know the new napa relay is junk now. But cant get new Ford till Monday. With the glow plug jumped I was able too hook up ae scanner. I got a bunch of codes. One said the relay for glow plug. But in not sure if they are correct or not being in forcing power to relay.

My buddy n I are stumbled and we really don't know what else too do at this point. Does anyone think that hot wire on relay makes get be bad cause it's not turning hot with key on? Or should we start first at seeing if we have power even too PCM? Which fuse numbers go straight to PCM?
I know I read on this forum about a fuse. I think 22 I could be wrong but one side should be hot and one should be not hot until key was on. But that fuse was hot 24/7.


Or my buddy said if anyone know where I can find good wireing on where those gp wires go. And maybe one from the PCM to inside truck and too outside I guess. Im sorry if dumb to electrical. But he's smarter at testing stuff.

We also swapped relays and we even checked the pcm droid fuse relay. One side was hot in the guard box. So we really don't know where to start or where to begin. Cause if u start the normal process. We have no power too PCM. But then we jump the relay then we have some things.

We don't get it cause others say the wts light has nothing too do w glow system. But then if we jump relay it does mess with glow system. Sony guess we need a break down of what does what and how n why if I can get the information. He can read wiring I cant. Makes no sense on my end.
So what's are first step. On seeKing why we have no power to pcm. Then things might fall into place from there. I just know I need this booger running soon. Thanks guys

 

It sounds to me that your PCM is not getting power for whatever reason. Start pulling fuses and test for continuity to see if one is blown. The PCM does tell the GPR when to activate, so the glow plugs are tied into the PCM to an extent. I think you are back feeding power to your PCM when you put your jumper between the top big lug and the smaller post. This in itself can be bad for your PCM, and I for one would not recommend it. Start at the beginning, test all your fuses properly, if they're all good then start checking your wiring to the PCM.

Remember fuses have to sides, a "line" side which pulls power directly from the battery, via the fuse box, this side will be hot regardless of whether the fuse is blown or not. The other side "load" side is what is affected by a blown fuse. You need to test both sides of a fuse to ground, if you can't check for continuity......

 

If you turn your key on and your not getting power to the small forward post on the glow plug relay the you have a problem with the ignition "Run" circuit. I suspect your not getting power to several things which may explain not having a wait to start light. Need to check power from the ignition switch run circuit. I'll see if I can find a wire diagram

 

Looking at a wire diagram when you turn the key on the power from fuse 30 in the fuse panel under the dash goes to pin 86 at the PCM power relay which is relay number 30 in the fuse panel under the hood. Turn the key on and check for 12 volts at pin 86 for that relay. If you have no power there then figure out why.
If you have power there it should close the relay and take the 12 volts that is on pin 30 at all times and send it out to multiple items including the PCM and glow plug relay. If you have no power at pin 30 figure out why.
It sends the power out through pin 87. You could just put 12 volts straight from the battery to pin 87 and see if the small post at the front of the glow plug relay gets power and the wait to start light comes on. At that point the truck might start if all is powered. If this works and you have power at 86 and 30 with the key on this would indicate a bad PCM power relay.

 

hey im gonna add this too this cause im not sure if its related or being i forced the ae scanner too read by jumping relay. but i was able too get these codes. again they may not be 100% correct being i forced power to turn wts light on.


gem/central timer B1352 Ignition key in circuit fault

enhanced powertrain
p0472 eps low
p1690 wastegate solenoid circuit
p1670 electronic feedback signal not detected
p0381 glow plug/heater indicator circuit
p0603 internal control module keep alive memory (KAM) error
p1139 water in fuel indicator circuit



i do understand some of these may not be true as i know the whole truck does not operate by jumping gp relay. thanks i will no longer jump the hot to run anymore. to help safe my newer pcm


i really cant do much today being my buddy is with family and i need ford to open to buy a gp relay unless i buy another cheap junk one just to get gp relay working even though i know the small post wont turn on w key on. i also want to buy another pcm droid fuse or relay as well small black fuse type part that sits in the outside motor box very 1st one. kinda like a mini fuse. i know it was tested by buddy but dont know if it was at proper specs. i have the proper readings from another post on here while ive been spending half the morning on here reading on why no power to pcm. just to see if i missed something.

 

thanks my buddy will love this i'll keep ya all posted if we can get together today i'll run this test with him.. thanks

 

i guess untill i get a good 101 on how to test wires for shorts/breaks and power n ground here im lost. My buddy had to go outta town so im on my own with this cluster mess. funds are too low for shop service. its either let truck sit till summer or i get somone that knows more on electrical then me.... so im at a stand point guys. sorry i'd love to have this fixed asap cause my plow truck is down and no money here. its been down a month she just sits 20 miles from my house to where its hard to go everyday too try this n that...

 

This sounds like a fusible link has blown, but replacing the link might not fix the problem - it might blow again. This is a tough one without having somebody at the truck who is familiar with multimeters.

When you are jumping things, the IDM is not getting power (and maybe not the fuel pump - you should hear it). That's why you're not starting and the reason for the p1670 electronic feedback signal not detected.

 

it is very stressful very aggravated with not knowing where to even start and having truck miles away does not help i read online and see pics and people explain but nothing i can do unless i have an idea what too do. yes i know how to do very basics check fuses and look at wires for burnt and bare wires but thats it. and my only resort i had has to work outta town so now i have noone.

i dont even know where the fuse able links are at. i can even tell u 100% if im getting power from the fuse to pcm. i dont know where to look what wire or color. u look under dash i see 8000 wires where do they go no clue what do they do no clue lol. its tough now changing parts i can do that lol

 

i know its not the pcms cause the 2nd on is doing same thing if i only could go to step one and start to see if pcm is even getting power that would be a start. i also know that my data link was getting power at pin 4 and ground at pin 16 i might even have it backwards. but yes data link is getting ground n power. i know that my gp relay was not getting power from little post in run at key. now i know my gp relay is junk. cause im not getting power too the other big post on relay

 

just wondering would that little fuse called pcm driod cause this issue? i guess i can try to buy that and thoes black ones that ya cant see if they are bad