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Unhook ALL the cables on the relay (note / take a picture on your phone of where they should go first), jump straight from the battery to both smaller terminals, when power is applied to them you should hear a small click as it engages and have continuity across the larger terminals, if it reading open, either the solenoid itself is shot or the contacts are badly pitted / corroded. If this is the case I would replace the relay
Did I read the fuel bowl heater is blown and the #30 fuse is out? If so replace the number 30 fuse and see if the wait to start light comes on. That would be your problem as stated before.
Did I read the fuel bowl heater is blown and the #30 fuse is out? If so replace the number 30 fuse and see if the wait to start light comes on. That would be your problem as stated before.
He said it had blown a long time ago. He unplugged the heater ran with it unplugged. I had asked him to check that fuse. I have not seen that he has done so.
He said it had blown a long time ago. He unplugged the heater ran with it unplugged. I had asked him to check that fuse. I have not seen that he has done so.
Don't check it, replace it. Or what ever one runs the fuel blow heater on his truck. Some are different.
Don't check it, replace it. Or what ever one runs the fuel blow heater on his truck. Some are different.
The issue I have with just replacing is that someone might not notice the new fuse blow when they install it. I would always recommend testing for voltage on both sides of the fuse.
He said it had blown a long time ago. He unplugged the heater ran with it unplugged. I had asked him to check that fuse. I have not seen that he has done so.
Yes Fuel bowl has been disconnected for 4 years now so i know that little fuse you are talking about. N yes i've checked it its getting power right now i have 3 things missing they are NO FUEL NO GLOW PLUG SYSTEM AND NO WAIT TOO START AND NOW NO COMMUTATION WITH PCM WITH THE AE SCANNER..
Did I read the fuel bowl heater is blown and the #30 fuse is out? If so replace the number 30 fuse and see if the wait to start light comes on. That would be your problem as stated before.
Fuel bowl has been unhooked for years now cause it shorted out back then
Check the following fuses:
Central Junction Box
30, 24, 27, 8
Do you have battery voltage at pin 4 (GND) and pin 16 (B+) on the data link connector?
where or which one is the central junction box? and where is the data link?
i'm still leaning more into no power at pcm while my ae scan tool does not communicate with getting me any codes.... cause i have no wait too start no fuel and no glow plug system but truck will turn over. just no fire. if i had a spear i would try it for ****s n giggles but i dont so i cant just try it. i can go again and replace thoes fuses. but my buddy who is btter then me with multi meter tested all fuses im not sure what test he did but he says they are all good. inside and out side fuses. and u dont hear the the fuel pump.
The central junction box (CJB) is the fuse panel inside the cab, below the steering wheel on the left side. The data link connector (DLC) is the OBDII style connector you connect AE to. Again, under the steering wheel, but on the right side.
The central junction box (CJB) is the fuse panel inside the cab, below the steering wheel on the left side. The data link connector (DLC) is the OBDII style connector you connect AE to. Again, under the steering wheel, but on the right side.
Oh OK. Sorry I just did not know the the words ford calls it. We've checked every fuse many of times.all good. And my ae pro line connectors do light up just does not connect too truck. I won't be able to check with my truck. It's 30 miles elsewhere and no wheels today. So I can't do squat sorry.
It's been a few days since I've looked. Over truck. I bought a new PCM. It will be here thus am. Gonna go put batts on charge while waiting for new PCM. I'll keep u all posted hope n prey this fixes the no wait to start and other related problems.
We have new updates here. Changed the ignition system we replaced PCM. We replaced all fuses. Still no go on a firing truck. We changed the glow plug relay we get power to battle + post. We are not getting power to little post on front of relay when key on. I used a jumper wire from 24/7 batt+ post to little front post on relay. Relay clicked and stayed on. Turn key wait to start on. My toggle switch for relay turned on. Tried starting truck. It's been cold for weeks. It's gonna be s bitch to fire. But wait too start was on. Now I'm too the point where if I jump the post. I'm not getting wait to start now. I hear Gpr click when I jump them. But now I don't get wait too start not sure why. So I guess I'm not sure where to go now in my steps. Other then its gotta be the gpr system. I need more information on how to start looking into this mess. Where does this wire go? Why would it work before and not now?? That's my update spent 12 hours just finding this. Thanks guys.
Man you got a lot going on here. If you're not getting any power to the little front post on the glow plug relay you need to figure that out. You may find that you're not getting power to a lot of things. Have you looked at the back of your fuse panel to make sure you don't have some melted wires. Also check your feed wires from your battery to your fuse box is both of them make sure you don't have corrosion.
Attached is a link to a good troubleshooting and description of the glow plug system by wooden things. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...WiriDLzUVy-X_Q
Be careful jumping across the relay. The small wire on the back side goes directly to the PCM and there's a ground in there. Don't want to fry your new PCM.
I know you said you unhooked the fuel bowl heater a while back. What do the wires look like at that plug that's hanging loose. Make sure you don't have a short there.
Sounds like the batteries have taken a pretty good beating over the last couple days. What is the voltage drop to when you try and crank it.