waiting for my 77 F150 I'm doing some search how to connect an active subwoofer to the Radio.
As I had found, there will be a remote cable to connect with the Radio which will switch on the Sub if the engine fires.
Another cable is ground and one for the positive pole.


But should I plan a separate audio crossover or is it common that this is integrated in the Sub?
As I understand, there are 2-way-speakers plus one Sub for low. But the frequencies have to be separated for the two Speaker and the Bass.


How do you connect your Audio System?


Best regards Gerhard

 

easiest way, would be to run RCA cables from the back of your radio to the crossover, and then to the amp.... if your head unit is equipped. if not, then you'll want to just splice into your stereo speaker wires, and run one set back to the x-over, and on to the speaker as normal. that being said, if you're only wanting some mid range, and to save some $$$, then you can get away with not using a crossover, and go straight to the amp. how much power are you using from the amp? you might consider a Capacitor to keep to much suge draw from happening between the amp and the battery. I'm not sure what your budget is, or what you plan on running. That info would be helpful, but this is a good place to start.

 

Are you referring to an amplified subwoofer system, the kind that comes in a pre-made enclosure? If so, the crossover selection should be on the unit or set in the unit automatically if it has only one crossover point.
And, is your radio stock, or an aftermarket unit? If it is an aftermarket unit, you should have a 'remote' wire. This will be either blue or blue/white. This will send a trigger to your amplifier when the radio comes on. You will still need your normal positive and negative wires run for main power to the amp. If your amp is fuse protected, you should use wire based on the fuse size. 12ga for up to 20 amps, 10ga for 30amps, 8ga for 40 amps, etc. Also, if your radio is a little more modern, it will have crossovers built into it, in addition to the RCA jacks in the back. Use the RCA jacks when going to the sub unit, if at all possible.

 

Thanks for all replies.
The Radio is an aftrermarket one, I plan to put in a refurbished old one instead. In europe is common used the DIN hole for radios, have to check which type fits the truck. Frequencies are different too, the radio definetly moves out.


Well, understand with the crossover. There is one built in the amp.
The amp is active with 150W Output, I dont want a Disco in the truck, but bit more on the low side would be fine. The amp is a little MacAudio 108 type sitting under the bench.

 

you still might try to find a small capacitor. our electrical systems are old and it could help with the draw surges.

 

yes, will look out for that.
Amazon promos tries to sell me an 1F-capacitor, but these have only 200-300mF.
Not shure about that.

 

If you plan was to install an old factory radio, then you will likey only have speaker level outputs. Some self amplified sub enclosures have speaker level inputs that you can use to connect. The sub box will filter out any high frequencies.

If you get an aftermarket radio, you may actually have a low level sub out rca jack which can be run direclty to the low level sub inputs on the box. Then the radio can be used to adjust sub volume.

The sound quality will be miles better in the second option for a host of reasons....

 

This is especially true if you have the stock alternator and are running the heater, wipers and high beams on a winter night. Otherwise, things might dim and cut-out. Not good going down the road at any speed.

 

Have no clue, which alternator would be best, any advice for that?


Not the first step to upgrade but will remind it later.

 

This is something you will have to decide. There are links here called 3g upgrade that utilize 90's Ford alternators in our trucks. Some of us have gone the 1 wire alternator route. These were done to utilize high power alternators (100 amp and above) to be able to supply additional gadgets in/on our trucks.

 

Don't use a capacitor, they are not worth it, and in many cases actually make power delivery to the amp worse. They act like a bottle neck for the power to travel through, which will give the appearance that its doing what its supposed to, but in reality all its doing is forcing your amp to not be receiving the proper amount of power. If you have problems with dimming lights, your best solution is a second battery.

 

Your question slightly puts the cart in front of the horse.....

Decide on the head unit ya want then determine which peripherals (crossover, bandpass filters, amp(s), subwoofer(s), etc may be needed.

3G alternator info in the Tech Info Compilation.

 

Ok, read all the 36 pages, sounds simple to me. In europe it could be hard to find one of them.


There are 140-150amp 1G alternators, what about them? Do they work as the OEM and fit the truck too?
Summit lists 21 of them for heavy $$$. But do they fit?