76 Highboy Running without a bed
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Trailering
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
76 Highboy Running without a bed
Hey guys, I'm new here - thanks for all the help. My son and I are restoring a 76 Highboy (yes, we've verified it's a true Highboy) and the bed was rusted out so we'd like to run it without the bed for awhile. (Real HighBoy beds are hard to find, so we're thinking it might be awhile!)
My question is, does anyone have any recommendations for how to wire some taillights, etc without a bed? And this one has an aftermarket? supplimental gas tank between the framerails that we'd like to also use. I figured I'd just fabricate a temporary cap with a PVC cap or something...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
My question is, does anyone have any recommendations for how to wire some taillights, etc without a bed? And this one has an aftermarket? supplimental gas tank between the framerails that we'd like to also use. I figured I'd just fabricate a temporary cap with a PVC cap or something...
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,785
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Ck what you local PO say about running around with no bed. Tail lights bumper mounted or not. Maybe a great time build wood flat bed. Also with that 400 lbs ish off the back end it will almost traction less.
No bed ='s great way to bust out a back glass.
Here's what the factory wiring diagram says for rear lights:
Blk/rd= backup lights
Black= side marker, tag lights (on styleside)
Brown=tail lights, tag light (on flareside)
green= RH stop and brake
Yellow/blk= LH stop and brake
Rear light wiring #2
BROWN: running light circuit
YELLOW with BLACK stripe: driver-side stop/turn
GREEN: passenger-side stop/turn
BLACK with RED stripe: backup lamps
73 & 79 headlight-marker lights use same color codes
Brown= side marker and parking lights
White-blue trace= turn signal
Red-black trace= Low beams
Green-black trace= Hi beams
Black=ground
Flat bed wiring…
Brown= Run Light
Green= Brake light- L
Yellow= Brake Light- R
Black= Reverse Light ??
No bed ='s great way to bust out a back glass.
Here's what the factory wiring diagram says for rear lights:
Blk/rd= backup lights
Black= side marker, tag lights (on styleside)
Brown=tail lights, tag light (on flareside)
green= RH stop and brake
Yellow/blk= LH stop and brake
Rear light wiring #2
BROWN: running light circuit
YELLOW with BLACK stripe: driver-side stop/turn
GREEN: passenger-side stop/turn
BLACK with RED stripe: backup lamps
73 & 79 headlight-marker lights use same color codes
Brown= side marker and parking lights
White-blue trace= turn signal
Red-black trace= Low beams
Green-black trace= Hi beams
Black=ground
Flat bed wiring…
Brown= Run Light
Green= Brake light- L
Yellow= Brake Light- R
Black= Reverse Light ??
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
I know of a rot free bed on an f250 highboy with trashed sides=it is in a wrecking yard on hwy 3 headed twds gorst here in Washington state
Last edited by Earnie Rosenow; Dec 12, 2016 at 11:33 AM. Reason: forgot to say it is a highboy
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
I ran my 76 without a bed while I restored it and picked up like 2 MPG. I just used a complete trailer wiring kit and duct taped it on. This was only for 3-4 weeks.
But if you get off the road, you're spinnin...
But if you get off the road, you're spinnin...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 21
From: Aransas Pass, Tx
You could get the magnetic tow lights. They plug into a 4 pin trailer plug and mount on anything metal. I used a set to tow my high boy back from Oregon and they worked great.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Hey guys, I'm new here - thanks for all the help. My son and I are restoring a 76 High Boy (yes, we've verified it's a true Highboy) and the bed was rusted out so we'd like to run it without the bed for awhile.
Real High Boy beds are hard to find,
so we're thinking it might be awhile!
Real High Boy beds are hard to find,
so we're thinking it might be awhile!High Boys have different bed mounting holes due to their 33 1/2" inner frame rails behind the cab.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: spokane
Don't know about Utah, but in Washington state you don't need a bed as long as you have some sort of "fender" covering the tire and mudflaps that hang down to centerline of the axle. Only time I've ever been harassed about mud flaps was in my lifted jeep though even though my truck has more exposed tire than the jeep.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
A set of generic trailer lights mounted on the rear frame rails will help and also provide a bracket and light for the license plate. These are typically $15-$20 at an AP, home improvement or farm supply store. These need to be tied into factory wiring per recommendations above.
I have run around this way using a piece of wood mounted on the end of the frame rails for light mounting. If you do use wood to mount, the mounting studs for the lights will need a ground wire to the frame.
Later, when I built a wood flatbed, I used the same lights permanently mounted and no problems.
I have run around this way using a piece of wood mounted on the end of the frame rails for light mounting. If you do use wood to mount, the mounting studs for the lights will need a ground wire to the frame.
Later, when I built a wood flatbed, I used the same lights permanently mounted and no problems.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
But there's not a state line I can cross legally like that.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
A set of generic trailer lights mounted on the rear frame rails will help and also provide a bracket and light for the license plate. These are typically $15-$20 at an AP, home improvement or farm supply store. These need to be tied into factory wiring per recommendations above.
I have run around this way using a piece of wood mounted on the end of the frame rails for light mounting. If you do use wood to mount, the mounting studs for the lights will need a ground wire to the frame.
Later, when I built a wood flatbed, I used the same lights permanently mounted and no problems.
I have run around this way using a piece of wood mounted on the end of the frame rails for light mounting. If you do use wood to mount, the mounting studs for the lights will need a ground wire to the frame.
Later, when I built a wood flatbed, I used the same lights permanently mounted and no problems.
I also don't know of any state that you have to run rear fenders.
If that was the case then 18 wheelers could not bobtail, no trailer, down the high way.
Only thing like said is mudd flaps that come down lower than the center line of the wheel
What was posted using cheap trailer lights is the best way to go.
Run a 2x4 across the back to mount mudd flaps & light to and enjoy.
And yes the back of the cab will get dirty and rocks stuck in the tread can take out the back glass.
Depending on the size of your tires maybe use a 55 gal drum to make fenders to cover the wheels with mudd flaps just incase.
Dave ----