92 explorer help
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2015
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92 explorer help
ok 92, explorer- need some help. For lack of better terms it feels like it's 'jerking' or cutting out' - kind of as if you had the ebrake on and tried to give it gas. History- now I remember that's why we parked it. New fuel pump around 4 yrs ago, no problem after that. Just had to put in (needed) new battery, new starter, new ignition key cylinder, heater core, fuel filter and oil change.
Used the innova scanner and a snap on scanner, no codes retreived/ passed on KOEO and KOER.
Almost always under a load even a tiny hill it'll do it, cold or not it does it, sometimes you notice it as you are taking off and getting up to speed (at that point it feels like a 'cold blooded' not wanting to go yet even though it's at op temp) then you can be driving 55 on a flat hwy and it just starts doing it. At times it feels like it's going to die but it doesn't. Sitting at an idle sometimes you hear it slightly and other times not as much.
Used the innova scanner and a snap on scanner, no codes retreived/ passed on KOEO and KOER.
Almost always under a load even a tiny hill it'll do it, cold or not it does it, sometimes you notice it as you are taking off and getting up to speed (at that point it feels like a 'cold blooded' not wanting to go yet even though it's at op temp) then you can be driving 55 on a flat hwy and it just starts doing it. At times it feels like it's going to die but it doesn't. Sitting at an idle sometimes you hear it slightly and other times not as much.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,808
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
In your list of replaced parts I didn't read spark plugs or spark plug wires. Both of those could cause the symptoms you describe. I'd start with those, and I'd recommend not just buying the least expensive set of spark plugs wires you can find as that may make things worse. If the fuel has been sitting for a month or more, that could be a contributing factor as well. Drain as best you can and fill up with fresh. If that doesn't fix it, at least you probably needed them anyway. If further troubleshooting is needed, items to troubleshoot would be ignition coil, ignition module/pick up unit, vacuum lines, and fuel injectors (maybe one is slightly plugged).
-Rod
-Rod
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2015
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I'll double check with him when the plugs were last replaced, I dont think wires have been in a while. fuel was drained, new fuel put in, when still doing it (prior to replacing fuel filter) ran a bottle of Lucas fuel cleaner.
Would ignition coil and module be possible once it started, warm and running??
Would ignition coil and module be possible once it started, warm and running??
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
A misfire on Fords of that vintage once the engine was warm was a rather common symptom of an intermittent ignition module. The ignition module was mounted on a heatsink that unfortunately was pretty good at absorbing engine heat as well and intermittent connections within the module would expand and make intermittent connection which caused a misfire. Generally an intermittent ignition module would not be an issue on a cold engine though.
-Rod
-Rod
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: NE Tennessee
If the fuel was pretty foul there could have been some debris still in the tank that got pulled into the new filter. You may think about changing it again. If it hesitates at idle it wouldn't be a bad thing to put a gauge on it to see how the pressure is when it starts hesitating.
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4wd Low
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Ok, just back from shop. He didn't put on big scope, said to do plugs and wires first. Plugs weren't fouled or lean, gap had spread to about 70 just on the one he pulled. So had him do new plugs and wires$145! That of course made it to where I can't afford to put it on scope right now. Didn't change a thing, still does it cold or warm. This time on the way back after stopping at stop sign it did it so bad I thought for sure it was going to die.
Anyway, on the gas, it had been running low when parked, and problem started well before that. Drained and put in new filter, so I don't think sediment is a problem-as it's the same thing from several tanks of gas before it got parked.
Anyway, on the gas, it had been running low when parked, and problem started well before that. Drained and put in new filter, so I don't think sediment is a problem-as it's the same thing from several tanks of gas before it got parked.
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4wd Low
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Code reader at the shop didn't pull any codes. Would/ wouldn't if it were ignition control module it throw some code? I know my MAS and computer did, and other relays (in the other rig). I'm at a loss.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
The EEC system on the pre-OBD-II Fords were not as good at identifying faults as the systems are today, so I'm not confident an intermittent ignition module would trip a code. But I'd be a bit more comfortable suggesting the ignition module if the issue were primarily present once the engine were warm.
Does the shop have the ability to monitor the IAT and ECT sensors in datastream mode? I don't even remember if that was an option on the '92 Fords. But maybe one of them is so far off that it's causing the air/fuel ratio to be way off.
Has someone thoroughly checked the condition of the vacuum lines? And not just looking for cracks or breaks, but making sure they are snugly connected at the ends? Also, make sure the EGR system is working properly. That might require removing the EGR valve and testing it off the car. If the EGR is failing to close completely at idle it will be essentially a vacuum leak.
-Rod
Does the shop have the ability to monitor the IAT and ECT sensors in datastream mode? I don't even remember if that was an option on the '92 Fords. But maybe one of them is so far off that it's causing the air/fuel ratio to be way off.
Has someone thoroughly checked the condition of the vacuum lines? And not just looking for cracks or breaks, but making sure they are snugly connected at the ends? Also, make sure the EGR system is working properly. That might require removing the EGR valve and testing it off the car. If the EGR is failing to close completely at idle it will be essentially a vacuum leak.
-Rod
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