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26.5 Jayco 5th wheel, has Mor EZ ride suspension. My new truck and it don't fit very well. Need to raise the 5ver. Question:
16" wheels are an OPTION on my rig, but were not on it when I bought it new, as I understand I need to drop my suspension to fit the 16's and their different/taller tires. See pics for questions...
Any tips on dropping this spring hanger to the lower bolt hole: Lifting the 5ver, dealing with spring, NEED to remove wheels etc??? THANKS!
Ok, got the 2 outer spring hanger dropped, is there a drop point here I am not seeing or do I leave it along???? Thanks
17 Oaks,
I did the same thing to my 2016 Jayco Eagle HT 26.5 BHS this summer. Steps are outlined below:
1. Hitch trailer to truck and leave it hitched during lifting.
2. Use straps or similar to hold shackles in the "normal" position on each side of the equalizer. (I lifted the trailer up far enough far enough to leave the tires on when I made the adjustment, which is enough room for the shackles to invert and drop the equalizer side of the suspension, which is not too fun to correct.)
3.Jack up the trailer one side at a time using a 12 ton bottle jack and cribbing behind the rear axle, but as close to the spring hanger as possible. Support the frame of the trailer using a 6-ton jack stand as close as you can place it to the bottle jack. (my jack stand support point was less than a foot behind the point where the square tubing for the spring hangers ends.) Repeat for the other side. Jack the trailer up so that you have ~2=3" of clearance under all of the tires when the trailer is sitting on the jack stands.
4. Place a jack underneath the front axle to control the movement, but not putting weight on it.
5. Remove the bolts in the front spring hanger on both sides.
6. Lower the jack so that the spring eyes line up with the lower holes in the spring hangers.
7. Re-insert the bolts into the lower holes, through the spring eyes. (Note that you may have a small amount of twist in the springs, so you may need to use the jack to raise or lower the axle to align the bolt with the inner hole in the spring hanger after you have inserted the bolt through the outer hole and into the spring eye.) Tighten the nuts on these bolts to the correct torque. (I want to say it called for 70 ft-lbs.)
8. Remove the jack from under the front axle and repeat steps 4-7 for the rear axle.
9. Reverse the jacking process to remove the jack stands and lower the trailer on to the suspension.
10. Remove the straps that were used to secure the shackles to the equalizer.
Hopefully that is helpful if you haven't already gotten this task done.
17 Oaks,
I did the same thing to my 2016 Jayco Eagle HT 26.5 BHS this summer. Steps are outlined below:
1. Hitch trailer to truck and leave it hitched during lifting.
2. Use straps or similar to hold shackles in the "normal" position on each side of the equalizer. (I lifted the trailer up far enough far enough to leave the tires on when I made the adjustment, which is enough room for the shackles to invert and drop the equalizer side of the suspension, which is not too fun to correct.)
3.Jack up the trailer one side at a time using a 12 ton bottle jack and cribbing behind the rear axle, but as close to the spring hanger as possible. Support the frame of the trailer using a 6-ton jack stand as close as you can place it to the bottle jack. (my jack stand support point was less than a foot behind the point where the square tubing for the spring hangers ends.) Repeat for the other side. Jack the trailer up so that you have ~2=3" of clearance under all of the tires when the trailer is sitting on the jack stands.
4. Place a jack underneath the front axle to control the movement, but not putting weight on it.
5. Remove the bolts in the front spring hanger on both sides.
6. Lower the jack so that the spring eyes line up with the lower holes in the spring hangers.
7. Re-insert the bolts into the lower holes, through the spring eyes. (Note that you may have a small amount of twist in the springs, so you may need to use the jack to raise or lower the axle to align the bolt with the inner hole in the spring hanger after you have inserted the bolt through the outer hole and into the spring eye.) Tighten the nuts on these bolts to the correct torque. (I want to say it called for 70 ft-lbs.)
8. Remove the jack from under the front axle and repeat steps 4-7 for the rear axle.
9. Reverse the jacking process to remove the jack stands and lower the trailer on to the suspension.
10. Remove the straps that were used to secure the shackles to the equalizer.
Hopefully that is helpful if you haven't already gotten this task done.
Have not done it yet, but this week for sure and exactly what I needed....
I didn't see it mentioned but might want to replace any nuts and bolts that you take out. My camper shackles have stover nuts which are usually one time use.
Might consider switching to greasable bolts and brass bushings while you're at it.
I didn't see it mentioned but might want to replace any nuts and bolts that you take out. My camper shackles have stover nuts which are usually one time use.
Might consider switching to greasable bolts and brass bushings while you're at it.
Good thought I will inspect and take action, thanks...
While at it, I'd replace all the shackles and pins to lubeable pins with bronze bushings. Did that on mine for app. 100 bucks. Old pins had plastic bushings that were about 1/2 gone.
Sous, thank you for asking that question. I was wondering the same thing. I think I'll stick with my jack stands. Though the cribbing is less likely to be stolen than a jack stand.
The OP's pictures show the camper parked on gravel. That would lean me a little more toward cribbing. (Plus the fact I have cribbing from jacking up a house and a barn to replace posts.)
Sous, thank you for asking that question. I was wondering the same thing. I think I'll stick with my jack stands. Though the cribbing is less likely to be stolen than a jack stand.
They might have trouble stealing the stands with a 30 foot + 5er sitting on them.
