I tried the arcing the glow plug relay with no luck. i did find it was humming for a go while too. i found the clicking is my ac pump kicking on and off with the ignition being turned on. my ac kicks turns on and off randomly with a/c off and heat blasting. but thats a whole different thread.

i did remember when i was putting the glow plug relay in i tightened one of the smaller studs too much and stripped what ibthought was the nut, i didnt attempt to take it off i just put an extra nut from the old solenoid over it to keep it snug.
could i have broke the post or GPR?

i think ill just throw new glow plugs, new UVCH, and new GPR in, and new valve cover gaskets....and this time be more careful with the New GPR.
That way i know its done...and if it still dont work ill assume its my injectors then?

thanks.

 

Even if you broke the stud off inside of the solenoid itself, bridging the two big posts with a screwdriver or something along those lines would jump the power across and activate your glow plugs.

I haven't read the entire thread, but if you're bridging the two big posts for like 15 seconds and then you go to start your truck and it still isn't starting then you either have;

- Bad Glow Plugs
- Bad UVCH
- Bad/corroded wires leading from GPR to glowplugs.

 

THIS MAY BE VERY RELEVANT TO YOUR SITUATION!

If you have your heater/AC/Defroster/Vent controls turned off, and the AC Pump is kicking on and off when you turn the ignition on, you have a faulty ground wire/connection! Check your ground cables, both ends.

 

Very true! Faulty grounds are a PITA. That information is not for a different thread

 

first thing i always tell people to do when suspecting a faulty glow plug relay is to put an led in the cab, wired to the output of the relay.
this way you can readily identify if the GPR is working or not. LED lit, GPR is working. no LED lit, GPR is not working.

 

and can see if volt gauge is less than normal when GPs are on but the LED is a good idea too

 

If you're using the MIX or windshield defrost position, the A/C compressor will energize with the key in the ACC or RUN position.

 

and i usually do run those settings.
but it has also (sometimes does it, sometimes not) kicked in and out at idle with the truck running too.
but it also clicks twice when i turn the key to acc to warm the gp's

 

does it do it with vent?

 

no it does not.

 

Well i think i need some new batteries, terminals and wires. But besides that... THIS GOD DANG TRUCK STILL WONT START IN THE COLD! FYI ITS -20 HERE!!BRRR!! havnt tried it while plugged in yet since i changed my glow plugs, gpr, uvch, and checked everything was working before putting the covers back on. But besides my crap batteries...while on the 200amp charger...it wont pop off... even tried starter fluid. Not even a putter. However, After i just sat with the key turned for about 40 seconds it started to chugg then popped off. Blew blue and white. I didnt wait for it to fully warm because i was just moving it 15ft into my heated garage to do some unrelated work to it. But after about 1 minute it was still blowing blueish white. I CAN ONLY ASSUME THIS IS AN INJECTOR PROBLEM (BESIDES MY JUNK BATTERIES AND TERMINALS)? AM I CORRECT OR WRONG?

 

i wonder if my gpr is bad. I turned the key to on so the gp heated up while i grounded them. They did indeed heat up. But the gpr clicks once and buzzes loudly. Even after the cab light is off it still buzzes. I havnt timed it to see how long. I do know it stops once the truck is running...at least i think.

 

first thing you need to do is get good batteries and cables in it. glow plugs draw A LOT OF POWER
close to 200 amps just for the glow plugs. then you add in the starter, and poor batteries ain't gonna cut it.
the GPR buzzing could very well be the battery charger not being able to supply enough power for everything.

the smoke on a cold engine at -20 degrees would not bother me

 

Agreed on all accounts. If your still questioning the relay YouTube a gpr test, takes literally a minute with a volt meter. 5 more minutes to ohm your plugs.Considering this all has been replaced, I'll be the first to say it, I'm willing to bet your due for injectors. Your armature clearance is too tight.

Id not suggest shimming them yourself based on this thread.

With a proper running glow plug system and good injectors your truck should start well into the negatives. It was -18 this morning, and 5 year old plugs and relay it fired right up, sounded like chit, but it fired up, and that's with two injectors that stick when cold until you get on it down the road. With charged batteries, count to ten after the wts light goes off, and crank.