I am new to owning a diesel so I need some help. I have a 2000 7.3 with 180,000 miles on it. When I start it it blows white smoke until it's warms up. I had new glow plugs, glow plug relay, and swamps injectors put in it but it still blows white smoke that smells like diesel. Does any one have any idea of what it could be it does it no matter what the temperature is but it clears up when it gets to operating temps.

 

How long are you leaving the key on before you crank it?

 

About 30 seconds I wait till I can't here the glow plugs anymore.

 

There was another individual here who experienced the same issues with Swamps Injectors. O don't know as he ever figured it out.

I would check the Glow Plugs and Relay again.

Pretty generic. I just got tired of retyping all the time so I made some Macros....

echo=on

** Glow Plug System Operation
Glow Plug ON time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The Glow Plug relay comes on between 1 and 120 sec. and does not come on at all if oil temp is above 131oF.

** Verify that B+ is being supplied on the large BK/W wire going to the Glow Plug relay.

** Install a voltmeter to the glow plug feed terminal (two brown wires or center terminal on the shunt).

** Using the SCAN GPCTM and EOT PID’s, verify glow plug "on" time.
Turn key to run position, measure voltage (On “Time) (Dependent on oil temperature and altitude) Relay on time

** Spec. Measurement 1 to 120 seconds B +

Note: Wait to Start Lamp "on" time (1-10 sec.) is independent from Glow Plug "on" time

** Glow Plug Resistance

Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers
Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Batt. Ground.
Spec: .1 to 2 ohms

Measure engine harness resistance to relay
Glow Plug Connector to relay
Spec. 0 to 1 ohms

Number
#1 #5
#3 #6
#5 #7
#7 #8

**Add 5 seconds to glow plug on time when above 7000 feet in altitude, but not to exceed 120 seconds.

echo=off

 

On another note... Is it by chance colder than 32*F? The Fuel Heater doesn't activate unless the IAT is 32*F and EOT is < 100*F ..... Memory, don't quote it.

 

Are you hitting the gas pedal on start up?
My SD will blow a big ole cloud of smoke if its pedaled.
(Loaned my truck to my dad one time and he was hitting the gas pedal as he was cranking since that is how his cummins starts)
But on normal start up when it first fires I get a little puff of smoke out the exhaust pipe but it's only on intial start-up and stops pretty much right off the bat.

 

I'm experiencing the same issue on cold starts. We are having a cold winter here in the north east, she starts right up every morning (plugged in of course) but will blow white smoke until the high idle kicks in. Temps have been hovering around 0-10F with below zero wind chills here.

 

I live in texas and it doesn't get that cold here but even in the summer when I start it it'll blow some white smoke for like 5 minutes then stop but in the winter it's worse I'm guessing because it takes longer to warm the motor up

 

So you had the injectors replaced. What size are they, are they splits or singles, are you using a tuner or chip and if so can you tell us more about it?

 

The injectors are 175/146 single shot with a ts 6 position chip that came with the injectors I have a s&b cold air intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust.

 

do you see oil leaking anywhere around the turbo? i know the 7.3 is known foor having pedalstal seals bust seeming as they are just high temp o-rings. i dont know if the white smoke would stop if there was a leak but just a thought.

 

Tom, you're referring to me. Codycamp, I'm in the same boat. Belches white smoke that reeks of fuel, a massive cloud that fills both your and your neighbor's yards? Continues until oil temp hits 100F, where it starts to clear up, then totally clears at 130F (I monitor it with AE, but 120-130F is when the temp gauge starts to rise), and then runs like a champ? Swamps 175/146's, same as me. I've been through everything, and I mean everything, including live tuning with Cody. Swamps is sending me new AC 160's. The 175's are coming out and getting shipped back to Tennessee.

 

I am paying the difference between the reman 175/146 price and the price of new AC's, but Swamps is giving me the full credit for the 175's. Guess that makes all the freakin' work I've done a little more palatable.

 

What are AC's

 

It will be interesting to see how it does when you complete the install.

I had given your situation some serious thought over a few days about a month ago.

I looked at all the flow data and some other resources. I think what I came up with was merely the fuel introduction was quite a bit more than the combustion process could absorb.

We all know atomization is everything when introducing fuel. But, even then, the amount can exceed what being combusted, actually cooling the chamber. We often add fuel in Motorcycles to cool the cylinders when the racer lets off the throttle to do just that.

I hadn't got around to it as yet. But, I was looking for a hotter Glow Plug and "EOT fooler" (something that would default to a 30*F so both the GP and Fuel Bowl Heater was active) between the EOT Sensor and the PCM to keep them on based on EOT and IAT. OR,

I was considering altering the PCM programming to just keep them on 100% for say 4-5 minutes; thinking that would resolve the issue.

I had posed this to a friend who knows the "deep bowels" of the programming process. But, apparently he's pretty busy because he never got back to me.

I will give him a shout later.