Torque Conv recommendations
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Joined: Nov 2016
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Torque Conv recommendations
I've got a 2000 F150 5.4L 2V 210000 miles that has a bad head gasket and intake man gasket. I've decided to pull the motor and have it rebuilt. My question is should I replace the torque converter while I've got it out or save the money? I wasn't having any transmission related trouble but I've been told that while I had it out I might as well replace it. I've had others say reinstall the old one if I wasnt having any trouble with it, Recommendations??
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Hey Toddw440, while I don't personally care for Dacco converters, we put an HD3696 in my son's 1998 F150. The truck is an extended cab, 4x4, 5.4L, E4OD equipped truck. The tranny shop who did the work (complete rebuild) uses them, and to keep our 5 year warranty active, they wanted to use one. Had a rattling issue at about 7 months, and a "new" converter was installed.
It is a lower stall than the factory converter, but I don't know if it is necessarily better. The truck has more bottom end response. They also tightened up the shifting, meaning it is a more positive shift, not a long drawn out slide to the next gear thing. I would believe that this converter could be found for less than $400, but not really sure you couldn't get your converter "tightened up" if there is a good shop in your area for less. He is running 33.5x12.5x17 tires on 17x9 wheels if that helps. Good luck.
It is a lower stall than the factory converter, but I don't know if it is necessarily better. The truck has more bottom end response. They also tightened up the shifting, meaning it is a more positive shift, not a long drawn out slide to the next gear thing. I would believe that this converter could be found for less than $400, but not really sure you couldn't get your converter "tightened up" if there is a good shop in your area for less. He is running 33.5x12.5x17 tires on 17x9 wheels if that helps. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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I just had all this done. Front seal let go.
Don't know what converter was used but has very good off idle torque multiplication.
The shop also did shift changes in the valve body along with a flash of the PCM.
What a sweet driving machine at 259,000 miles plus.
Run on cruise control and auto shifts like it never did in stock form.
No racing RPM in down shifts. All positive/ no jerk/ no long times and at the right matching rpm and load = smooth but positive performamnce.
If you don't tow, the converter should not be a big concern as long as it's the right one.
The shop I use is Level 10, Hamburg NJ.
Don't know what converter was used but has very good off idle torque multiplication.
The shop also did shift changes in the valve body along with a flash of the PCM.
What a sweet driving machine at 259,000 miles plus.
Run on cruise control and auto shifts like it never did in stock form.
No racing RPM in down shifts. All positive/ no jerk/ no long times and at the right matching rpm and load = smooth but positive performamnce.
If you don't tow, the converter should not be a big concern as long as it's the right one.
The shop I use is Level 10, Hamburg NJ.
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