Whats up fellas, pretty new to the diesel world, seeing if someone gan shed some light for men this. are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?

Thanks, Devonte

 

Well, what parts have you got?

What do you plan to accomplish? Stock, mild HP gains, major hp gains, etc.

Oh, welcome to FTE!

 

This also might be a better question in the 7.3 forum.

 

I asked to have it moved there.

 

my objective is to get major HP gains thank you!

 

OK,

How much do HP do you want to make?

How much money do you have to spend?

 

i want to at east make over 400, ill have around 7k+ to play with

 

Depending if your auto or manual you won't even scratch the surface of that HP # its not only injectors, you will also need bigger turbo, stiffer valve springs, head studs, suspension mods, if auto rebuild with good stuff, if manual a good clutch etc... The list goes on an the $$$$ keeps going up.

 

Moved to 7.3L PSD forum.

 

You can get the 400 mark with 7 grand, but, as Adam said, you won't be doing much with your truck with a broke transmission. A stock tranny won't last 5000 miles at that HP.

There's several injector options you could go with. You will want something in the 200 to 250cc range.
Injector nozzles range from 30% up to 200%. Tuning for the 30%'s are pretty easy. When you go up, live tuning will be necessary to get the most out of those injectors.
There's a host of turbo mods, anything from different wheels for a stock turbo to a T-4 setup.
A good intake will be mandatory, as will an good 4" exhaust.

Gauges will also be mandatory.

Tuning, though many options exists, you will likely go with the tuner that your injector builder/re-builder suggest.

I would read as much as possible before spending any money on anything. Understand, it's your money, and your responsibility. You will break things. So be ready for that.

 

A better question may be what you actually intend to do with your truck? Hp isn't everything, especially with a diesel.

Do you want a racer? A tow pig? A puller? If we have an idea of your expectations from your truck it will help us point you in the right direction.....

 

First, make sure everything is healthy by running diagnostics, logging and letting some of the guru's here read the data. Scan for DTC's (FORScan below) http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/dtc.php . Check for exhaust leaks and boost leaks. Fix them if you find them. Up pipes are almost a given if they are stock as well as CAC boots. Both hurt performance and economy and increase EGTs. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/intern...e-kit-99-5-03/ Some have used Dorman with success: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-679-00.../dp/B009AA6Y1U . CAC Boots http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/comple...oot-kit-99-03/ These are the best money can buy and are less expensive than OEM junk.

Link to thread for diagnostics: Forscan is the way to go.. Free for laptop and better than current AE. Less than $5 for your phone but you'll need to purchase an OBDII link in either bluetooth for android or wifi for apple.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html Get the dongle ($15), OBDII to USB, for a laptop to unlock all of FORScan's potential. It will save you a lot of money and help us assist you in diagnosing your truck.

Then, you can easily make from north of stock up to 400-450HP on 175/80's, the difference is in the tuning, and they are easy to tune and de-tune. Larger nozzles help keep EGT's in check. Nozzles larger than 80% MAY require LIVE tuning which will cost upwards of $400 alone. Gearhead can nail 80%'ers via email.

Link to injectors:
NEW 175/80% INJECTOR

Link to PHP Hydra and the guy (Matt) that can easily write the tunes to tune those injectors all the way up to 400+HP. You'll NEED a chip if you change to single shot injectors. Your truck came with split shots if they are still stock.

https://gearheadautomotiveperformanc...ucts/PHP-Hydra HYDRA is currently THE hardware to use.

The Hydra also comes with a FREE library of tunes for your PCM calibration that you can try.

You can do pretty close to 400HP on a stock turbo as long as you don't beat on it all the time. Guys are doing it with the correct tunes. Link to easy upgrade that is cost effective should you decide you want more air: http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/rdp-66...onversion-kit/ It is advisable if you are gonna run it like you stole it.

Stay below 40 PSI, preferably 35 PSI boost and you won't need studs or valve springs.

Transmission advice is accurate. Link to HD4R100
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories
They also have the best prices on OEM parts that I have found.
If you replace sensors, ONLY use OEM sensors.

Or, you can spend most of that $7k in one place on this transmission: http://www.brianstruckshop.com/ John Wood also does a jam up job.

RIFFRAFF FORD DIESEL PERFORMANCE PARTS Is another GOTO for parts and accessories.

You'll want to get gauges for EGT and Fuel Pressure. Everything else can be monitored in FORScan on your iPhone, Android, or tablet.

Suspension link:
Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L - Suspension - OUO Traction Bar Systems - Riffraff Diesel Performance Axle wrap will be an issue a 400+HP

The guys above and this should get you started.

Welcome to FTE!

 

160/100 single-shot injectors are at the bottom of the catalog for achieving 400 HP. There is no need to go any larger than that, because it is at the cusp of the Buck$Zooka threshold. I have 400 HP available to me (if I select the race tune, which I've only done twice) with my single-shot 160/100s. I'm using a stock fuel system, other than the Hutch/harpoon mod - but I'm at the limit of the stock system. I don't need head studs, and I don't "need" valve springs unless I use engine braking - but valve springs help performance.

Here's what I had to do for the engine and vehicle to "accept" 400 HP sticks:

• Ford Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis book (PC/ED) and strive to get the truck to 100% condition.
• Gauges, gauges, and more gauges (dual EGTs, Fuel Pressure, bigger boost gauge, and OBDII gauges)
• HD4R100 transmission (Ford)
• Bigger turbo (38R)
• 4" exhaust from the turbo back (Flo-Pro)
• Much bigger intake (S&B)
• Traction bars (changing to OUO)
• Hutch mod
• Tuning (custom live tunes on a Hydra and stock-ish power tune on PCM)
• Billet intake plenums with an O-ring seal (Riffraff Diesel)
• Aftermarket CAC boots all around, and T-bolt clamps on the lower boots (Riffraff Diesel)

 

Tugly offers great advice.

One thing I would change for fitment is going with a down pipe that is 3.5" at the turbo, stock is 3", and gradually expands to 4" by the first junction and remains 4" to the muffler/resonator. It supposedly improves flow... IIRC, Tugly had a post about it a while back. I have a friend that has that setup plus a 5" muffler/resonator that continues at 5" all the way to the tailpipe. Some will say the 5" is not necessary, it lowered his EGT's by 50*, 4" resonator compared to 5" resonator offers a lower frequency tone without drone even pulling mountains with 15k in tow, but his configuration is quieter than the same setup in 4"....until he replaces the muffler/resonator with straight pipe. Then it sounds great...but loud.

S&B is the way to go. Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L - Intakes, Intercoolers & Related - Intake Systems & Replacement Filters - S&B CAI Systems - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

I think you need stage 2 to get to 400hp don't you?