Hi guys, brand new to the forum. I run an 06 expedition with 125k miles. Have only had the truck for a few months and not long after buying it I got a lot of engine knocking and ticking while driving (on acceleration). Eventually the knocking got worse and it stalled a few times--pulled and a couple codes (i think they were p0022, p0345) so replaced the VCT solenoids and the knocking has completely stopped--truck is running smooth, no more stalling and knocking, however, there is one engine noise that i am still hearing and i'm not finding any good information online about it. I actually hadn't heard it since the repair until last night when i pulled into my driveway. My driveway is at a slope so i have to give some gas to make it to the top, and as i was about halfway up i was nearly at a stop so i gave just a little bit of gas, and the engine made kind of a rough rattle sound. As i parked, i popped the hood and gave the engine a few short revs and i heard the same noise (i wanna say its kinda like a rattle, but i'll post a video here so you can hear it yourself.) Today while driving i've heard the noise a few times, but only at very low RPMs and at very low speed. I can also hear a quiet tick/tap on engine acceleration (i'm assuming its related to the same noise its giving me at low RPM. OK so i'm going to post a video so you can hear. I actually recorded this clip BEFORE changing my solenoids, so I lot of the knocking you hear in the background has stopped. Just listen at when i rev the engine-doesn't sound too clean to me. Got any ideas? Appreciated.

 

Can't say for sure, but the first thing that came to mind on the sound and from your description is chain slap, either bad timing chain tensioners or worn (stretched) timing chain. If you can isolate if it's coming from the front of the engine, then this will point towards the timing chain.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking myself, as I tend to fear the worst. I'll have a mechanic look at it tomorrow. If it ends up being something like a worn tensioner/loose chain, how long can I safely drive before needing to fix (tight on cash at the moment).

 

If it's bad tensioners, it could jump a tooth the next time you fire it up or you could drive for months with no issues. Impossible to tell. A timing kit isn't terribly expensive, but the labor is if you can't do it yourself. If you decide to replace the phasers at the same time (highly recommended, but not required) then that adds to the cost as well. Others like to do the oil pump as well while they're in there since it's really easy to replace once the timing chains are off.

The work involves removing valve covers, the front timing cover (including anything attached to it) and preferably the oil pan. Removing the oil pan is highly recommended if you have missing pieces of the chain guides, as these may have fallen into the oil pan and may block the oil pickup tube. It would in any case not be a bad thing to clean the oil pan and check the pickup tube as a precaution. In a good workshop with someone who knows the engine, this is 2-3 days of work. For a DIYer doing it from a manual, probably a week. There are some special tools needed for the job, but there are workaround methods if you don't have access to these.

 

Skauber covered this really well. I just did the same work to mine a couple months ago..... new oil pump, new timing set (chains, crank sprocket, guides, tensioners), new cam phasers, new VCT sensors, new water pump, new spark plugs, etc.) and boy, was it a choir. Not trying to discourage you by any means, but if you're not savvy in the automotive department expect to pay over $1k in labor alone unless you find a good mechanic to do it for cheap somehow. Took me several days once all parts made it in. LOTS of stuff to remove, and the valve covers alone are pretty difficult, mainly because of the bolts against the firewall .

If you feel confident tackling this yourself then I'd be happy to help walk you through the entire process. I did it without the special tools, and it just involved marking the chains a certain number of links away from the original markings on the new chains, then rolling over the cam phasers and crank sprocket just enough to line up with the new marks I made, then rolling the entire assembly over to the new factory marks to ensure everything is lined up. It's not too bad at all, and I can explain in deeper detail with high quality pictures I took of how I did it. Didn't need to remove any followers from the valve-train (requires a special tool), nor use a tool to line up the crankshaft. Just a bunch of common metric and standard sockets; 1/2" breaker bar; 1/2" ratchet and extensions; 3/8" ratchet and extensions; 1/4" ratchet and extensions; 1/4" universal joint, dead-weight hammer, and a few other pretty basic tools. The only thing you'll need a special tool for is to break the fan/clutch assembly loose from the water pump. I'll show you what tool to go with if you decide to tackle this.... the rental ones at the local auto parts stores simply don't work on our water pump bolts.

Like I said, if you want to try your hand at this let me know and I can give you my cell phone so you can call me for me to explain everything and the best way I found to do things.

-Andrew

 

I've removed the fan/clutch without any special tool a few times, just recently replaced mine, plus done a water pump on my friends '99 Expy. Just used a big adjustable wrench, and shoved a flat head screwdriver into the bolts on the pulley and then rested it against the belt tensioner while pulling the wrench to loosen the clutch hub. There is also a way to remove and install cam followers without the special tool.

 

Well dang, you got lucky on the fan clutch removal. I soaked the threaded joint in PB Blast and even propane torch to it and it took more leverage than a big flat blade screw driver would provide, and more abuse than one would handle. I had to use a special water pump holding tool, and wack the heck out of the large adjustable wrench (most people don't have one this large) with a dead weight hammer to break the hex fitting on the fan/clutch loose. I assembled the fan/clutch onto the new water pump with anti-sieze compound and didn't beat it on, so hopefully future removal won't be as intense. But I don't even know how you didn't damage the bolts holding it with the screwdriver.... must not have take much force. Very lucky, man!

Yeah if each cam is in a certain position range you won't even need to remove any followers.... you can spin the motor 360 degrees without contacting any valves. Just have to set the cams to where they'll stay still in that range, line up the chain. and then rotate the crank to match the marks on the chain. That's my simplified explanation. I can post pictures later if anyone wants.

 

Well, lets just say that when it broke loose I actually thought it was the screwdriver which broke and not the fan coming loose. The screwdriver was flexing pretty bad, but came out of it without being bent out of shape. Best to use a good one, not a cheap chinese thing made of plastic. lol

 

Hahaha but then someone else will do it with a nice MAC or Snap-On, bend it, and end up needing a replacement with their luck. That's how my luck is! lol

Here is what I used:

 

That's a better tool if you have it. But when you're standing out in the driveway with the tools in hand, you just have to get creative sometimes. Luckily the Stanley screwdriver I have lived up to its name..

 

haha I'm glad you were able to make due with the tools you had! I'm not going to tell you about my experience before buying the tool I bought.....