The only tools I carry are the basics that I may also need for the 5er. If I'm so afraid of a truck that I have to take a parts house with me I'm getting rid of it. Triple A RV card is what I carry and it fits in my wallet. I don't play the chicken little game. Knock on wood, never been left stranded yet.

 

I agree with you to a point. But I've already had an intercooler boot come off and have read about others and somebody in one of my posts even said I was lucky because usually the grenade when they fail.

Just trying to see if there are any common problems that I need to know about and if they can be addressed before they cause issue. Also because there are going to be times my wife and kids are going to be on 400 mile each way trips alone and want them to be safe.

I'm not looking at stocking every part or doing every possible upgrade. But just trying to learn from others experience. Also remembering the issues and upgrades that were recommended by others on this forum for my 7.3 and seeing if any apply to the new 6.7.

 

1. Oil Change Intervals? I change it when the computer tells me to. About every 7500 miles. I put 150,000 on my 2011 truck and have 55,000 on my 2015 and that worked just fine. I do use Rotella T6 since my truck sits outside and is not plugged in.

2. I had two of these sensors for my 2011 truck. One failed at 120,000 miles. It was so siezed up that there was not removing it on the side of the road. Needed to torch it and heat it up to get it to break loose. 2015 and newer have not had problems, I probably would not worry about this. I have the extra one from 2011 truck under my seat, but doubt I'd ever try to change it on the side of the road.

3. Yes, pretty sure, I don't hear it beeping on my truck

4. 65 psi empty

5. Check coolants every 15,000 miles. Grease slides on brake calipers periodically they tend to lock up and ruin rotors, I change oil around 7500, Fuel and Air filters every other oil change. the Air filters are cheap on these trucks, No need to run them to death. and the fuel filters are not bad if you buy them online and change them yourself. I wouldn't pay Ford to change them that often. Coolant flush is scheduled for 105,000 miles and Tranny flush for 150,000 but if you are towing heavy or severe duty, You want to probably cut those intervals in half.


6. These trucks start amazingly well in cold weather. Glow plugs go from cold to 2000° in seconds. I buy the winterized fuel down to 0°F and then start adding anti gel when it's below that. I do routinely add an additive to improve Lubricity in the fuel.

7. Air filters. The OEM filters work great and are cheap to replace.

8. Shocks, The OEM ones wear out fast. My brakes needed replacing at 50,000, But I tow a LOT in the western mountains, Front hubs on my 2011 were shot at 100,000 miles

9. Haven't looked.

 

Did you find out why the intercooler boot came off? You said the truck comes with an 80,000 mile warranty. Did you ask the dealer why they were including it? Or ask them what previous work has been performed on the truck? Did you get an OASIS report from the dealer? You can load the Ford app FreePass and get an abbreviated OASIS report for the VIN of your truck. This will give you a clue as to any work performed at a Ford dealer.

Just because it came off once, doesn't mean it will come off again in the future. Sometimes we get a little paranoid.

You have to also remember, with all the forums you have read or will read, you are only seeing a very small number of problems with the trucks. Probably less than 0.001% of trucks have intercooler boot or pipe problems. And suppose you carry the intercooler pipe, will your wife be able to install if she and the kids are on a trip? I think you would be better off investing in an upgraded AAA membership that includes towing and premium service a large data plan for a Verizon or AT&T cell phone than buying a few parts that someone other than she will install once she is towed to a mechanic or dealer.

Just my $0.02

 

Welcome aboard!

With regard to question #3, are you asking about a factory installed "dump truck" style backup alarm to warn the neighbors your truck is in reverse, or are you referring to the beeping from inside the truck, as you approach something with the rear of the truck while in reverse? If it is the former, I can't help. If it is the latter, there is a way to disable it one shot at a time, but nothing that I am aware of permanently. When you put your truck in reverse, touching "ok" on the steering wheel turns off the beeps until the next time you put the truck into reverse (or until the next time the truck is turned off - I don't recall which).