Sure, but they never came in bricknose trucks correct?

Edit, I just noticed it's a F250LD. Wouldn't that guarantee it was fuel injected stock.

 

They did for the 1987 model year.

I'm not sure what the Canadian regs were, but in the US you had two carbureted options 351 HO and 460.
​​​​​​​I can't make out the rear axle on my phone.

 

lol, okay. I'm looking for something around 600/650 cfm i think.

The gauge does as it moves over the entire range, maybe it's not reading accurately though. The fuel gauge also doesn't work.

I adjusted both floats and they seem better now. The rear was close. The front (primary) was not close and was very rich. I backed it off until it's trickling.



Here's a video of the sound. You should be able to hear it pretty often.


I will check that later. I'm just waiting for it to cool down a bit and eat some lunch. I drove it down the road a bit and noticed some surging under light/medium load. So I think I can adjust the floats a little more and pull more fuel out.
I'm also going to check the timing because a friend changed the distributor cap although he's never done it before, so it's possible that that is off.

 

1987 Was the last year of carburetors. Ard is correct in that only 351 and 460's had carbs only on the 87's. Everything after was fuel injected.

 

Well ya learn something new every day. I thought it was only 460s and that they could only get away with it cause of the high GVWR of the HD trucks.

 

Sounds like you're making progress.

The fuel gauge not working right on these trucks is downright normal. Oil pressure reading high isn't but I still wouldn't sweat it, look into the gauge first.

If I had to guess the exhaust sound is from being too rich, FWIW you can smell rich in the exhaust, hard to describe a smell, but it will burn your eyes more.

The carbed 351 thing, I just might have to keep an eye out for one. I always figured a 351/ZF5 combo in a HD would be a nice little unit.

 

Because of the transfer tube would I have to keep going from one side to the other? Or just set it once and forget it?

And I do think that it smells a little rich, although I'm worried about pulling too much fuel out and having it run to lean...

And if I didn't drive this thing in traffic I would love a ZF5. But I can't justify having a manual and an excessively large left calf muscle to sit in traffic and occasionally towing a decent sized trailer

 

K think we need to talk a bit about carb adjustment, but it's been a while with me on the 4180 and it's specifics, maybe ArdWrknTrk can fill in the blanks.

I bring this up cause you appear to be using float level as a way to adjust mixture, this is incorrect. As long as float level is not to high and causing the other problems I mentioned earlier it should not be used to adjust mixture.

Emission/factory Holleys vary a fair amount in how idle is adjusted, where the screw is, which way to turn, if it can be adjusted at all without modification, etc. IIRC on the 4180 the idle mixture screws are in the base plate vs. on the side of the metering block like most Holleys, and factory the access to them is plugged.(to me good reason not to keep it) Sense you rebuilt this sucker I'm assuming you know what they are and have removed the plugs.

Anyway, as long as you don't have symptoms of too high a float level it's time to move to the idle mixture screws. Turn them in slowly finding the point where idle just starts to slow. From there for you I'd turn them in all the way counting the turns in 1/4 turn increments. This is just to make sure you can stall the engine by turning them in, and counting the turns so you can get it back where you were easily.

So once you find the point where turning them in further starts to slow the engine turn each out a half turn, that should be just about right for good mixture and drivability.

 

I did turn out/in the main idle screw located on the side, and that only sped the idle up, but wouldn't drop it down(EDIT: I NOW KNOW THIS IS THE HOT IDLE SPEED SCREW).
So that leaves me with the idle mixture screws right?
I looked up the PCV in my Haynes manual and will look to see if that system is compromised at all. The factory air/emissions pump has been disconnected for some reason so maybe that has something to do with it as well?
Although the previous owner didn't mention anything about it running poorly. But that wouldn't be the first time someone lied while selling a car I guess.

Edit: Took the carb off again to get to the idle adjustment screws and they were backed out all the way. I didn't do a full rebuild; just fixed what I thought was broken. I've adjusted the idle since and I think it's better. But honestly I have no freakin' idea, I thought j fixed it the first time. It seems to sound better but that popping/air noise is still present. I think it might be a slight manifold leak? I don't know. If it's not fixed it's going to a garage.

 

Does it make this popping sound on trailing throttle while driving?
Does it clear up at higher rpms?

These are symptoms of a ruptured power valve.
If you think so, then look down the primary bores of the carb at idle and see if the boosters are dribbling.

 

Boosters don't dribble with a busted PV.

 

Blew a brake line on Sunday too late to get the parts so I wasn't able to see if it was fixed or not. So it could still be the PV but I won't know until I drive it for a while... Kind of frustrating.