FWIW these threads stripping on these 4180 bowls appears to be rather common. If you keep the 4180 and just buy a bowl, I suggest buying both bowls and replacing both for good measure.

 

I called the only carburetor shop close to me and they said they'd do an insert for $30. I'm kind of stuck because I currently don't have a car for my commute. I think I'm going to take this quick cheap fix to get me back on the road. Then when I have the luxury of being able to park the truck for a weekend and work on it I'll do a better/proper fix. Maybe even going with an 1850.

 

Went and bought a bowl instead of doing the insert, which I now regret. The new bowl leaks where the tube comes across from the primary bowl. Not were the gasket is but on the side. I will take a photo later and post it when I'm home.
It looks like it leaked the same on the primary bowl, but they "fixed" it with some steel putty.
Looks like I'll be buying a 1850 sooner than I hoped.

 

"Fixed" a transfer tube with JB weld?

I'm glad I've never run into that.

Usually people don't lube the seal and it gets pinched up, then leaks.
​​​​​​​No damage done to the carb.

 

Just to toss this out there so it's said. All depends on what happens, what you find etc. But I would not recommend buying a new Holley, find a good used one cheap great, older and in good condition even better. But more important the quality of new Holley carbs SUCKS, most of all for the money you pay for one. Secondly while I brought up the 1850 as a replacement cause it's similar it's not what I would recommend if all options are on the table.

If a new carb is an option to look at I suggest just skipping Holley the brand, stick with a Holley pattern carb but there's no reason to actually buy from Holley the company. Just like 1911s and ARs, few people actually buy from Colt. Quick Fuel sells some excellent Holley pattern carbs that have all the bells and whistles and are very reasonably priced.

This would IMO be close to an ideal carb for you. https://www.quickfueltechnology.com/...735cfm-vs.html $393 on their site, probably cheaper on Summit. You can't even get close to that from Holley, one they don't even make anything close to a 750 in a 4150 vacuum secondary, and even then the closest ones are $400, manual choke, no 4 corner idle, no adjustable secondarys, no changeable air bleeds, no power valve restriction, etc. etc. etc.


They have one that IMO would work well for you for just $286 on their site, but it's compromised in that it doesn't have a secondary metering block(you don't now either, nor does a 1850), but it has a metering plate with changeable jets. And that sucker is still center hung floats with all of the other adjustability you can get without a secondary metering block. Ohh and it has the Ford kickdown. https://www.quickfueltechnology.com/...750cfm-vs.html

EDIT, on second thought, given that your not a carb guru, money is tight, truck is otherwise stock etc. the second one for $286 is maybe perfect for you. You don't really need nor have the expertise to take advantage of the few things the secondary metering block gets you over their adjustable metering plate. What you lose is 4 corner idle, and more jetting tuning, neither you really need and 286 is A LOT of bang for the buck there.

 

Something is definitely wrong with something on this truck. High oil pressure and stalling after it gets to temp. Might fiddle with the carb again. Looks like there might be too much oil though. Would that cause stalling?

 

How high and according to what?

What kind of oil?

No too much oil wouldn't cause high pressure. An issue with the pump would but in Fords that is VEEEEERY unusual to the point of almost being impossible.

 

Sorry for not explaining in the first post. I was on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck.

At the H on the dash. And the oil level was well above the 'safe' on the dipstick.
Not sure on the oil, I've only owned the truck a couple weeks and only driven it twice. I'm changing the oil tonight. Quaker State High Mileage

I'm just not sure where to start, new plugs will also be on the menu.

I wish I knew more about carburetors, but I've never been exposed to them before this truck. I might pull it off adjust the floats so it's getting some more fuel? I'm kind of at a loss.

It does stutter and stammer/backfire a little before it stalls out as well. Punching the gas sometimes helped, but I haven't payed enough attention to know for sure.

 

Do *not* adjust the floats in an effort to "get some more fuel".
It doesn't work that way.

I've​​​​​​​ got to ask you, did the oil seem thin? Did it vaguely smell of gasoline?

Does your 460 have a mechanical fuel pump on the side of the timing case behind the power steering pump?

If so the pump can leak internally, sending gasoline into the crankcase and raising the oil level.
​​​​​​​Gasoline is not a good lubricant. ...

 

It is a 351W not a 460. And no I didn't notice it being fuel washed at all. But I didn't think that it would be. I'll check for that.
And if fuel is getting it and it's not lubricating properly wouldn't I hear that? Valve clatter or something? Also wouldn't I see higher water temps?

 

Fuel would tend to thin out the oil.
It would also tend to loosen up all kind of sludge and varnish that may have caked on the bottom of the intake crossover.

You wouldn't notice any noises until the oil was water thin or a bearing scored and spun.

Sorry I assumed that yours was a 460. Here in the states we usually see the 351 HO in 150's and the 460 in 250's & 350's

​​​​​​​I can't think of many other reasons for a rising oil level.

 

I don't know if the oil level is rising or if it's just high. As if someone over filled it. And I double checked the oil, it didn't smell like gasoline at all, just like old oil.

 

I'm sorry, I guess I misunderstood.
​​​​​​​It seemed (to me) that you were saying that the oil level had risen above the 'full' mark on the dipstick.

 

Wait, it's a 351, clearly ArdWrknTrk and I had been assuming it is an 87 with a 460. The only model of bricknose that came stock with a carb at all let alone a 4180. Is it not stock or is this some weird Canada thing? So ignore my carb recommendations, they'd be too big.

As for the oil pressure, very likely a gauge issue, not actual high oil pressure. It's near impossible to actually have high oil pressure. Not only is there a pressure relief valve in the pump that limits pressure. But if the pressure ever got really high it would very likely break the oil pump drive shaft leaving you with no oil pressure.

And yes DO NOT "pull it off adjust the floats so it's getting some more fuel" float level on Holley carbs is meant to be set with the carb on the vehicle. On the passenger side of the float bowls should be two brass plugs with flat screwdriver slots. With the fuel pump running, or even with the engine running you remove those plugs and adjust the float level so it's right at the base of the opening. Raise the level till it trickles out if it's running, or till it splashes out a bit if you bump the truck with your hips.

As for the stutter and stammer/backfire a little before it stalls out when warm if I had to guess the float level is too high causing too much fuel. The backfire, is it a fiery bang or an air sound puff? You know how a toilet works right, a float, a valve at the bottom and a overflow tube? Carbs work very similar, if the float level is too high it will basically overflow fuel into the engine causing it to be too rich. This the engine tolerates more when it's cold, but once warmed up it can't.

This could potentially add fuel to the oil as well, though that would be rather extreme.

Easy enough to find out if this is happening, two ways. Either check the float level by removing that plug, or the best confirmation is by looking down the carb. Get the fuel pump going and look down the carb, if the float level is too high the boosters(round things in the center) may be dripping fuel and the throttle plates will be wet.

Another potential source of extra fuel would be a blown power valve(PV). The power valve can be blown by a strong backfire, if it's blown then it stays in an open condition. In the open condition it releases more fuel into the engine. The best test to see if the PV is blown is to try and stall the engine by leaning it out with the idle adjustment screws, if you can stall it that way then the PV is fine.

 

351 4V HO's ALL came with the 4180 carb...