Long Brake Line
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Elder User
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Great! Yea, I read your troubles Gary. That is why I am asking here before purchasing. My dad needs a flaring tool for something he is working on now anyway and so we will be getting that. Do you still recommend the sections or ordering the full 25' (which may be enough to replace the front ones as well while I am at it)?
I did not think about using a marker to see where I am at. I like that idea.
I did not think about using a marker to see where I am at. I like that idea.
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Elder User
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Which kind of tube benders do y'all prefer?
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Tubing-Fo...5%3A2470955011
Or this:https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-02-...5%3A2470955011
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Tubing-Fo...5%3A2470955011
Or this:https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-02-...5%3A2470955011
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Tubing-Fo...5%3A2470955011
This will be the better bending tool for your application. Keep in mind, it may not handle tougher (heavier tubing) bending jobs though. For the NiCop tubing...it will be perfect !
This will be the better bending tool for your application. Keep in mind, it may not handle tougher (heavier tubing) bending jobs though. For the NiCop tubing...it will be perfect !
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
You need 3/16 line.
The ABN bender you linked is for 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8"
Remember Gary's predicament with the left hand rear line having 7/16-24 threads at the junction block.
If you have the proper Ford junction block then get the oversized line nut, or reuse the old one on your new tubing.
The ABN bender you linked is for 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8"
Remember Gary's predicament with the left hand rear line having 7/16-24 threads at the junction block.
If you have the proper Ford junction block then get the oversized line nut, or reuse the old one on your new tubing.
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I just did this job a couple of months ago on another truck I have. Get the copper nickle at the local parts stores. It bends so easy you can thread the line up through almost like wire.
The pre-made sizes are a little oddball, but you can make it work. I usually use 3 pieces and two couplers to get to the rear, just to make it easier. Pick your line lengths to put the couplers in places easy to get to. When you are bleeding the brakes, get your helper to hold firm pressure on the pedal after you are done and inspect the couplers and fittings for leaks. You may need to tweak one here or there to stop a small leak.
The pre-made sizes are a little oddball, but you can make it work. I usually use 3 pieces and two couplers to get to the rear, just to make it easier. Pick your line lengths to put the couplers in places easy to get to. When you are bleeding the brakes, get your helper to hold firm pressure on the pedal after you are done and inspect the couplers and fittings for leaks. You may need to tweak one here or there to stop a small leak.
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And since I am getting the tools, I should get the 25' with fittings? (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2D2R1XTPRDL5U)
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How can I make a flare like this? Second to left. Tube Flaring & End Forming Services - Deerfield, NJ
My gas line had one that far back (not at the tip) and I was not sure of the name of the tool. I have one that does that, but it only does 5/16" tube and larger.
My gas line had one that far back (not at the tip) and I was not sure of the name of the tool. I have one that does that, but it only does 5/16" tube and larger.
Lead Driver
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How can I make a flare like this? Second to left. Tube Flaring & End Forming Services - Deerfield, NJ
My gas line had one that far back (not at the tip) and I was not sure of the name of the tool. I have one that does that, but it only does 5/16" tube and larger.
My gas line had one that far back (not at the tip) and I was not sure of the name of the tool. I have one that does that, but it only does 5/16" tube and larger.
The short answer is there is no such tool economically available to the home mechanic. The closest thing I've seen only fits larger sizes and only works on thinwall tubing such as a heater core. Even that was several hundred dollars. I haven't seen anything remotely affordable for the smaller, heavier tubing used on fuel lines, etc.
I have found a decent workaround for fuel lines. See the last picture of post #1 here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html
The bubble was formed by doing just the first step of the double flaring process. The only difference from the professionally formed one you referenced is that the bubble is at the end, not slightly inset. The bubble on the end seals just as well and is also easy to insert, if not easier.
For anybody else just joining this thread, please keep in mind the subject morphed to fuel lines. A bubble/clamp connection like this would quickly blow apart with the pressure found in a brake system.