Requesting assistance with Charging System
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
Circuit Board medics
I did talk to them via messenger on their website. He did indicate that he thought that it could be the dash and he provided a couple of diagrams to help trace out the LG/R wire. I didn't get very far with those. He indicated that the low charge indicator is a integrated circuit on the board. Not as easy as changing out a bulb as I first thought.
SO, I could send it off and it may or may not fix the root issue.
if I knew the circuit that is feeding the low charge indicator I could test it to see if the signal was at least making it to the dash.
Maybe I'm making too much out of this but I don't really like throwing parts at the problem when it may or may not be the issue.
mike
SO, I could send it off and it may or may not fix the root issue.
if I knew the circuit that is feeding the low charge indicator I could test it to see if the signal was at least making it to the dash.
Maybe I'm making too much out of this but I don't really like throwing parts at the problem when it may or may not be the issue.
mike
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Can you post the cluster circuit board they sent you
I'd just keep it jumped off switch hot in run
Maybe convert an up fitter we could look at diagrams to see if it would work
monitor with OBDII PORT volts and amp if you want
Get rid of that 110amp alt my 190 amp DC POWER seams to hold up we'll so far 6 years now and pushed a stereo pretty hard most of it It don't owe me anything if it died today
with a good alt you can basicAly forget about it
I'd just keep it jumped off switch hot in run
Maybe convert an up fitter we could look at diagrams to see if it would work
monitor with OBDII PORT volts and amp if you want
Get rid of that 110amp alt my 190 amp DC POWER seams to hold up we'll so far 6 years now and pushed a stereo pretty hard most of it It don't owe me anything if it died today
with a good alt you can basicAly forget about it
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
Alt
Normally I would agree with you about getting rid of the 110 alternator. In fact, I had already made that decision when I started down this path. I originally purchased a 135A (top alternator from dual system) to slap on there. But then I was still showing charging issues at the batteries and I was still working on premise that the alternator could have been the problem. So, I swapped it back to an new OEM replacement 110A to eliminate that as a possible issue. In hindsight, the 135A was probably fine and I could/should have kept it.
I'll just put an overdrive pulley on the 110 and swap the alternator out in a year or two.
Until then, I'm going to keep working to try and get my hands around this beast of a truck. I really want it to run and run right. I have no interest in piecemealing this thing together.
I'll just put an overdrive pulley on the 110 and swap the alternator out in a year or two.
Until then, I'm going to keep working to try and get my hands around this beast of a truck. I really want it to run and run right. I have no interest in piecemealing this thing together.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
its on the road
Root cause analysis and resolution has not been confirmed....YET.
BUT
It is on the road and the batteries haven't died yet.
I got the correct pig tail from local parts store and I've hot-wired/jumped both circuits on the alternator to the functioning circuit from the original connector (OG/LB). This should signal the alternator to turn on in KonEoff and KonEon scenarios. NOT an ideal situation, but it will get me down the road until I can pull the dash and send it off for repaired in a couple of weeks. It's deer season don't ya know.....
I will return and report once I get the dash repaired.
mike
BUT
It is on the road and the batteries haven't died yet.
I got the correct pig tail from local parts store and I've hot-wired/jumped both circuits on the alternator to the functioning circuit from the original connector (OG/LB). This should signal the alternator to turn on in KonEoff and KonEon scenarios. NOT an ideal situation, but it will get me down the road until I can pull the dash and send it off for repaired in a couple of weeks. It's deer season don't ya know.....
I will return and report once I get the dash repaired.
mike
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
minor update
Truck has been running fine without any issues on jumped pigtail to the alternator. I'm pretty sure this is not an ideal situation and will eventually result in a burned up alternator. I just need one more week before I can tear it back down to the instrument cluster.
I did call Circuitboard medics. They indicated that the faulty low charge indicator was NOT one of their normal repair scenarios and they recommended that I replace the instrument cluster at $400 but I think that includes a $150 core charge. I'm assuming that my broken cluster would qualify but I really should verify before blindly sending it in.
Mike
I did call Circuitboard medics. They indicated that the faulty low charge indicator was NOT one of their normal repair scenarios and they recommended that I replace the instrument cluster at $400 but I think that includes a $150 core charge. I'm assuming that my broken cluster would qualify but I really should verify before blindly sending it in.
Mike
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
Update: NO JOY
Purchased a replacement dash from CircuitBoard Medic.
Quick delivery was very much appreciated.
Turned key on ACC, the low charge warning indicator light did not light up, my heart sank. Moved forward with testing knowing what the results would be.
LG/R: KoffEoff = 0 KonEoff = 0
Started the truck, waited for the GP cycle to complete, no change in Volts at 11.3. Hot wired the alternator, volts after GP cycle were 13.4.
I still need to try and manually trigger the low charge indicator but I don't have high hopes.
I think i'm down to either being a PCM issue or wiring issue.
I have purchased hardware/software to run the TorquePro application so I will be playing with that today as well. Not sure if that will tell me anything or not.
Thoughts?
TIA,
Mike
Quick delivery was very much appreciated.
Turned key on ACC, the low charge warning indicator light did not light up, my heart sank. Moved forward with testing knowing what the results would be.
LG/R: KoffEoff = 0 KonEoff = 0
Started the truck, waited for the GP cycle to complete, no change in Volts at 11.3. Hot wired the alternator, volts after GP cycle were 13.4.
I still need to try and manually trigger the low charge indicator but I don't have high hopes.
I think i'm down to either being a PCM issue or wiring issue.
I have purchased hardware/software to run the TorquePro application so I will be playing with that today as well. Not sure if that will tell me anything or not.
Thoughts?
TIA,
Mike
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
its cold outside
confirmed KOEO during pinpoint test, no light.
confirmed fuse #45 IS hot with key on.
I was able to confirm GOOD continuity test between Alt pig tail and instrument cluster.
confirmed fuse #45 IS hot with key on.
I was able to confirm GOOD continuity test between Alt pig tail and instrument cluster.