Requesting assistance with Charging System
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
clarification
Blades- Just to be sure I'm on the same page. You are referring to the LG/R wire? The O/LB wire already has power (keyOn or KeyOff).
So if I hot wire the alt (and not blow myself up) then I should see the alt kick on and start to provide power to batteries. If that were to work that pretty much eliminates all of the possible mechanical issues from the alternator forward (ALT/Power Cables/Connections/Batteries).
Just trying to think of ways to limit the scope of investigation.
So if I hot wire the alt (and not blow myself up) then I should see the alt kick on and start to provide power to batteries. If that were to work that pretty much eliminates all of the possible mechanical issues from the alternator forward (ALT/Power Cables/Connections/Batteries).
Just trying to think of ways to limit the scope of investigation.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
There is most commonly a problem in the dash cluster causing you issue
Does fuse have power
This wire is charge control it's good per you test
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
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From: Jersey Shore
Agreed, but you already show a Pinpoint B2 check failure per the PDF I sent. I would also it's replace that fuse even though you checked it just because it's the easiest thing you could be doing here. I'm not a fan of dumping power onto the circuit with out the other wre in place.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
B2 passed, B3 failed
Wait, that's not right.
The pinpoint B2 test passed (OG/LB).
The pinpoint B3 test is the one that failed (LG/R).
The pinpoint B2 test passed (OG/LB).
The pinpoint B3 test is the one that failed (LG/R).
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
Is there any risk at dumping too much power onto that circuit?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I didn't see a dash light and I specifically looked
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Ideally you would remove the bad wire from play (avoid any back feed of power to broken circuit)and only jump power directly at alt
You will be fine with 12volts
You will be fine with 12volts
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
idiot indicator.....goes off when I'm around....I don't get it....
OK, I found the pinpoint test for the low charge warning indicator. I'll see if I can muddle through that. I'll have to get some supplies.
RE: jumping the alternator. I have a pretty good idea what needs to happen. Just have to figure out a way to make it happen. I'm open to ideas here.
RE: jumping the alternator. I have a pretty good idea what needs to happen. Just have to figure out a way to make it happen. I'm open to ideas here.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
no updates today
Sorry, no update today.
Life got in the way in the from of working late and a flat tire AND flat spare on my daily driver.
The plan is as follows:
create a 15 amp jumper to test the low voltage idiot light on the dash. If that works, need to start checking the LG/R circuit from the alternator to the dash. If it fails, need to check the LG/R circuit anyway but will probably need to consider getting the dash repaired.
Create a jumper wire to hot wire the alternator to see if it will at least turn on and provide 13.4 at the batteries. If this works, then focus effort on the LG/R circuit. If it fails, i'm pobably going to jump off a bridge....
Hopefully I will have results tonight.
Thanks again,
Mike
Life got in the way in the from of working late and a flat tire AND flat spare on my daily driver.
The plan is as follows:
create a 15 amp jumper to test the low voltage idiot light on the dash. If that works, need to start checking the LG/R circuit from the alternator to the dash. If it fails, need to check the LG/R circuit anyway but will probably need to consider getting the dash repaired.
Create a jumper wire to hot wire the alternator to see if it will at least turn on and provide 13.4 at the batteries. If this works, then focus effort on the LG/R circuit. If it fails, i'm pobably going to jump off a bridge....
Hopefully I will have results tonight.
Thanks again,
Mike
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
update Pinpoint E1 failed
Pinpoint test E1 (Charging System Warning Indicator) failed. If I did it right. KeyOnEngineOff - Created 15A fused jumper connected one side to the LG/R wire ran the other end to body panel, no light. Also ran it to the negative post on the battery, no light.
Hot wiring the alternator DID work.
KeyOnEngineOn - batteries measured at 13.4 and 13.7 at 1K rpm.
Everything in front of the alternator is working as designed.
I also verified fuse #45. Swapped it with a known working fuse and the suspect fuse worked in new location.
I did find a LG/R wire under the dash, attempted to run a continuity test. Assuming I did it correctly, KeyOffEngineOff it failed.
I will attempt to contact circuit medics tomorrow to see if there is something that I can try.
I also have a lead on a local diesel shop with good recommendations.
Thoughts?
Hot wiring the alternator DID work.
KeyOnEngineOn - batteries measured at 13.4 and 13.7 at 1K rpm.
Everything in front of the alternator is working as designed.
I also verified fuse #45. Swapped it with a known working fuse and the suspect fuse worked in new location.
I did find a LG/R wire under the dash, attempted to run a continuity test. Assuming I did it correctly, KeyOffEngineOff it failed.
I will attempt to contact circuit medics tomorrow to see if there is something that I can try.
I also have a lead on a local diesel shop with good recommendations.
Thoughts?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
excellent!!
if you didn't care about the battery light you could leave it hot wired but it needs to be on a circuit that Hot In RUN Only (Don't want to drain batterys) maybe an up fitter switch
if you did want a battery light then cluster is most commonly the issue
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: North West Arkansas
no resolution yet
Kind of disappointed that I don't know what the root problem is. I suspect that it is the dash but I would really like to know before spending $200+ on a whim.
If I knew what the end point was for the LG/R circuit (PCM?) then I could test the circuit out of the PCM and rule that out as an issue. Still leaves the wiring harness and the dash. If I know the circuit path I could check continuity across the wiring harness and rule that out as an issue. That would give me some confidence in the dash.
Does anyone know how I can trace out the LG/R wire from the alternator connector to its designated end point?
Mike
If I knew what the end point was for the LG/R circuit (PCM?) then I could test the circuit out of the PCM and rule that out as an issue. Still leaves the wiring harness and the dash. If I know the circuit path I could check continuity across the wiring harness and rule that out as an issue. That would give me some confidence in the dash.
Does anyone know how I can trace out the LG/R wire from the alternator connector to its designated end point?
Mike
