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I get it, chilton/hayes sucks, but it's what I have in hand at the moment.
Single alternator, dual battery (third line on OP).
Just to be clear, what is the exact procedure to test the LG/RD wire? voltmeter, black to passenger neg post, red on LG/RD clip? trying not to fry everything with a bad jump.
I'm not comfortable stating one way or the other since I don't have the '06 layout in front of me. But reading volts isn't going to screw anything up.
You'll find official and copied Ford service manuals on DVD from eBay. I have three. There is also an online subscription that can be had that I used to use at work and you'll also come across people who post open links to those.
Often Sean posts sections that people are looking for here he has if he reads the thread.
I would recommend touching base with Circuit Board Medics here on the site. Around '06 Ford started to control different functions through the dash cluster, something I have not bothered to understand. They may be able to confirm if the cluster has a history of faulting and not turning on the alternator.
You still can have a broken wire to the connector though, which you can check with key-on and see if the voltage comes through when moving the harness around.
Is it possible to check for continuity between the plug on back of the dash through to the alternator connection?
I also read somewhere about jumping a circuit to force the low voltage idiot light on for testing purposes. Can anybody point me in the right direction for that?