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Requesting assistance with Charging System

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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:35 PM
  #16  
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My '03 is the same as I believed all the 6.0s are, but I just don't want to give him bad info if the '06 is different.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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I think your correct Jack


Its actually a Alternator Pinpoint Test
Iv used it worked Awesome even better then Oreilys bench test





he needs to specify or I missed it does he have Dual Alternators??
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:51 PM
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He didn't spec, but if it has duals it is the lower alt should be the only one with a controlled delay on from the pcm.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 08:53 AM
  #19  
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Thank you for everyone's eyes and ears.

I get it, chilton/hayes sucks, but it's what I have in hand at the moment.

Single alternator, dual battery (third line on OP).

Just to be clear, what is the exact procedure to test the LG/RD wire? voltmeter, black to passenger neg post, red on LG/RD clip? trying not to fry everything with a bad jump.

I'll check that fuse when I get home.

thanks,
mike
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 09:27 AM
  #20  
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From the '03 design level this is the Ford Manual test methodology. For the possible '06 curve ball you've thrown, can't help.

A voltmeter is all you should need. The sense wire should be battery voltage all the time. The control wire should only have power with the key on.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 09:38 AM
  #21  
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thanks

Thanks Jack-
I appreciate your time.
Are those manuals available to general population?

Based on what I've read, was hoping you would have the answer, now i'm more concerned.

thanks again,
Mike
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 10:23 AM
  #22  
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I'm not comfortable stating one way or the other since I don't have the '06 layout in front of me. But reading volts isn't going to screw anything up.

You'll find official and copied Ford service manuals on DVD from eBay. I have three. There is also an online subscription that can be had that I used to use at work and you'll also come across people who post open links to those.

Often Sean posts sections that people are looking for here he has if he reads the thread.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #23  
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Update

Fuse #45 10 amp is good

Resting battery volt 12.2

results from Alternator switch point test (?):
LG/R: KoffEoff = 0 KonEoff = 0
O/LB: KoffEoff = 12.2 KonEoff = 11.3

Additional observations:
When turning key to accessories, the Low Voltage idiot light does NOT light up.

Thoughts?
mike
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 10:40 PM
  #24  
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Mike,

I would recommend touching base with Circuit Board Medics here on the site. Around '06 Ford started to control different functions through the dash cluster, something I have not bothered to understand. They may be able to confirm if the cluster has a history of faulting and not turning on the alternator.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 06:54 AM
  #25  
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conflicting data

I gave some confliciting information in this thread.
The truck is a 2005 model with a Jan build date.

Is 'Circuit Medics' a person or a vendor?

mike
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 07:00 AM
  #26  
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https://circuitboardmedics.com/ford/

here you go!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 07:11 AM
  #27  
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Thank you!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #28  
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You still can have a broken wire to the connector though, which you can check with key-on and see if the voltage comes through when moving the harness around.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #29  
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check for continuity

Is it possible to check for continuity between the plug on back of the dash through to the alternator connection?

I also read somewhere about jumping a circuit to force the low voltage idiot light on for testing purposes. Can anybody point me in the right direction for that?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 09:32 AM
  #30  
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Check for power at the fuse key on one of the two blades the fuse goes in should be hot

Ohm the fuse itself

That alt wire just needs key power you could hot wire it

but I'd dig into it more first
 
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