Ball Joints
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
Ball Joints
On my 03 F350 4x4 SC 5.4L auto, I have to replace the tie rod end off the pitman arm, figured as long as I have it in the air, I'd check the ball joints because the tires are starting to wear in the inside. Hoping it's just a camber adjustment but my luck, it'll be ball joints, SO, with that said. I'm looking at Motorcraft, moog and driveworks brands, which are better? Are there other brands that would be better than these 3? Talking to my local mechanic he wants to put in moog brand, but he want's over $1000 to do the job, so I guess I'll be doing it myself if they're bad.
Any suggestions on brands, tips or tricks about installation procedure??
Thanks.
Any suggestions on brands, tips or tricks about installation procedure??
Thanks.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 343
From: Breckenridge, TX
Seems like XRF has been a popular brand here lately.
You should be able to rent all the tools you need from O'Reilys/Autozone/Advance, except the seal drivers.
This thread tells you how to make this driver:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PKC5W...b_recs_4_title
You should be able to rent all the tools you need from O'Reilys/Autozone/Advance, except the seal drivers.
This thread tells you how to make this driver:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PKC5W...b_recs_4_title
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 323
Likes: 32
I'd stick with OEM Spicer stuff. I got mine through Drivetraian America (no affiliation) as a kit with all of the seals and O rings and updated axle tube end seals for the same price as moog. I figured i they lasted 132K miles, why change. I rented the free ball joint press at the local Advance and made my own seal tool from 3 and 4 inch pvc pipe and a toilet flange glued together. You should be able to get away with the 1 1/4" iron pipe tool if you have 4x4 for your 01. I'm pretty handy at this kind of stuff and it took me 3 days after work till dark to do it all including painting the backing plates and installing 2 new tie rod ends.
Plenty of write-ups here already if you search.
Good luck with it.
Plenty of write-ups here already if you search.
Good luck with it.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
Thanks for the advice guys. I read the write up you linked texastech_diesel Pretty good. I'll get some prices and checkout both brands. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
I would go Spicer as well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...I27OCEC57J8UL0
I installed Moog ball joints, Motorcraft seals and Spicer U-joints but to me the savings wasn't there. Had I known of the Spicer kits available it would have been a simpler choice.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...I27OCEC57J8UL0
I installed Moog ball joints, Motorcraft seals and Spicer U-joints but to me the savings wasn't there. Had I known of the Spicer kits available it would have been a simpler choice.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
Alright, I changed the tie rod which helped with the little bit of play in the steering.
I had the Pass side up and checked the ball joints, nothing wrong, but checking the axle U-joint, it's shot, just flopping. Went to the Driver side, lifted it up, nothing wrong with those ball joints either the bearings are shot in the hub though and the U-Joints on it's way out also, SO, being that I haven't had to work on anything newer than a 1974 F250 4x4, front end wise, what's involved in fixing this, How long should it take on average and how much and I looking at spending? Any Specialty tools needed? Or should I just let the shop do it? Thanks.
I had the Pass side up and checked the ball joints, nothing wrong, but checking the axle U-joint, it's shot, just flopping. Went to the Driver side, lifted it up, nothing wrong with those ball joints either the bearings are shot in the hub though and the U-Joints on it's way out also, SO, being that I haven't had to work on anything newer than a 1974 F250 4x4, front end wise, what's involved in fixing this, How long should it take on average and how much and I looking at spending? Any Specialty tools needed? Or should I just let the shop do it? Thanks.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
I had the shop order me 2 new hub assemblies, Questions:
#1 am I going to have to remove anything from the new hub, considering I have manual WARN lockouts?
#2 Any Specialty tools needed to do this Job?
#3 Are the Axle U-Joints the same size as the Drive shaft U-Joints?
#4 After pulling the hub assemblies will the axles pull right out or do I have to unbolt them from inside the front Diff?
Thanks for any help.
#1 am I going to have to remove anything from the new hub, considering I have manual WARN lockouts?
#2 Any Specialty tools needed to do this Job?
#3 Are the Axle U-Joints the same size as the Drive shaft U-Joints?
#4 After pulling the hub assemblies will the axles pull right out or do I have to unbolt them from inside the front Diff?
Thanks for any help.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
No special tools for the hub removal, standard socket set, torque wrench, snap ring pliers and a three jaw puller.
Not sure about the u-joints rock-auto shows the right Spicer's though.
Axles will slide may need some persuasion with a pry bar though.
Not sure about the u-joints rock-auto shows the right Spicer's though.
Axles will slide may need some persuasion with a pry bar though.
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
Thanks for the info, I have all the tools needed for the job. I'll check out rockauto also. Local parts store has Driveline and Moog, they want $40+ per U-Joint for the Moog and they're non-serviceable. don't really like that. I should have the new hubs by Thursday, just in time for the weather to drop into the 40's this weekend...LOL. I don't have a garage so sitting in the cold weather is going to blow.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 438
From: IL
Is this seal a vacuum seal or a grease seal? Because the auto hubs have been changed to manual so if the seal is vacuum it may not be needed?? If I have to I can always run to advance auto and rent one, no big deal.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 424
Likes: 70
From: Somerset NJ
I believe it is a vacuum seal but at the same time, I think it provides some form of stability for the axle? Someone with more knowledge of the system than I can probably answer that part. I had to pound the hell out of the one I did on my 06 to get it out which from what I've read usually destroys it... You may not 'need' it from a vacuum point of view but I doubt anyone would recommend running without it. I checked most of the stores in my area and nobody had the tool for rent so I ended up buying one on amazon. I have the kind of luck that if someone says make one exactly this way, it won't fit my vehicle... From what I've read, the 05+ models are different than the earlier ones but I could have the years off a bit. Highly suggest you look into this part before tearing things apart at any rate.
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