Well I got new tires and went to get an alignment, got the old 'ball joints need replacing' bad news, and an $1100 estimate. Did a search and while it looks doable DIY, we just put our house on the market and getting my tools and a place to do the work aren't so easy at this point. Is this a reasonable price? If not, I'm looking for somewhere reputable and reasonable in the DFW area to get this done, any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

My bad ball joint news came during a state inspection and new set of tires install at PepBoys. Quote for just ball joint replacement only for both sides was $950.

I'm gathering parts, tools and info to do it myself and do all the other associated front end parts that wear out like universals, main seal etc while I'm in there doing the joints. All said and done I'm expecting in the $400-500 range all said and done for everything while paying myself.

 

We have a mechanic I trust in Granbury, but, I'm sure that's farther than you want to drive. There's so much other that really needs attention when doing ball joints. Like when I did mine the tie rod ends were shot all the seals and bearings were replaced, redid the brake rotors and pads, just because they were there...it's just too much work to not do everything while you're there.

 

I'm in Arlington, where are you? Can they wait until next weekend? I'll be glad to help you, as I am doing mine right now and have all the tools. You just need to rent the ball joint press and bring the ball joints with you.

 

Kinda off topic...I've changed ball joints a couple times (on my old truck), and never could get the nut on the lower ball joints as tight as specified. What was I doing wrong? I'm sure I'll have to replace them on my new-to-me truck fairly soon.

 

Bought mine from XRF - upper & lowers and new tie rod ends also- Was gonna do them myself but found a mobile mechanic who came out & did the whole job for $250 labor under my carport. Had to have it aligned afterward. Mine is 2 wheel drive. It only took him about 2-1/2 hours total. I woulda been there all day

 

Ditto, except I've now done my own on three different PSD's for a total of 4 complete both-side change-outs (uppers and lowers). Still takes me about 3 hours. This last time, though, I was able to mark my camber bushing alignments before removal, and was able to get them back into the exact same positions with the new ball joints. The truck runs as straight as it did before the change-outs and I'm holding off on the re-alignment until I replace the front tires in a month or so.

 

Thanks for the replies, this chaps my hide cos I'm kind off over a barrel being in between places so I went ahead and had it done - just put brand new michellins on and don't want to take a chance on messing them up.

 

With your tools packed away, that was probably the way to go. I changed mine out in the drive way about a year ago with nothing more than hand tools and a ball joint press. Next time I will get an impact.

 

Capt.Schenk, The process for tightening is not straight forward nor is it guaranteed to always work, as you found out.

1) apply 35 ft-lbs torque to bottom ball joint
2) Fully torque upper ball joint to 130 ft-lbs or whatever the number is
3) Finish torquing the lower joint to 170 or whatever the correct number is
4) If the shaft turns on the lower joint, apply some pressure to the bottom joint with a hydraulic jack.
5) If that does not work, buy a 1-5/16 box end wrench. Put the box end on the nut, then clamp the top part of the shaft with a Vice Grips pliers wedged up against the truck and use the box end with a cheater (another box end slipped onto the open end of the 1-5/16" wrench or a suitably sized pipe). I have used #5 multiple times, it always works. Once the nut is tightened up enough to lock the shaft to the knuckle, the torque wrench can then be used to finish it off. Larry

 

Sparky, I like your #5. I'll remember that when I do the ball joints on this new truck. Thanks!