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Reluctant (DEF) pump out. 890$ to fix. Ugh Keller Ford profits. 2011 Ford F-250. How can this not be part of the emissions warranty? Doesn't seem right on a five year old truck does it?
Anyone else have this happen?
3 Toyotas never once in the shop. First Ford and it's been in the shop 3 times since I've owned it brand new.
The first year Toyota released the current Tundra platform they had cam failures and tailgate failures to name a few. My '12 with 104k miles has been to the shop once for a emissions recall that took about an hour and my wifes Edge with 30k miles hasn't seen a shop to date. Hope you get an answer to your problem.
The first year Toyota released the current Tundra platform they had cam failures and tailgate failures to name a few. My '12 with 104k miles has been to the shop once for a emissions recall that took about an hour and my wifes Edge with 30k miles hasn't seen a shop to date. Hope you get an answer to your problem.
Originally Posted by Roaddogdrc
Reluctant (DEF) pump out. 890$ to fix. Ugh Keller Ford profits. 2011 Ford F-250. How can this not be part of the emissions warranty? Doesn't seem right on a five year old truck does it?
Anyone else have this happen?
3 Toyotas never once in the shop. First Ford and it's been in the shop 3 times since I've owned it brand new.
Any suggestions? I can't delete emissions I'm in California.
Same problem, code keeps throwing and I've replaced pump, heater, and def injector. Same code again. My Toyota has 315k and is more reliable than this 2011 f250 with 103k. I love this truck but must have reliable transportation. Ready to trade if I can't fix and I don't want to... Any help is appreciated
The first year Toyota released the current Tundra platform they had cam failures and tailgate failures to name a few. My '12 with 104k miles has been to the shop once for a emissions recall that took about an hour and my wifes Edge with 30k miles hasn't seen a shop to date. Hope you get an answer to your problem.
Hey so I have a 2014 Super Duty with 69k miles and I had a code thrown for the def heater this winter. I replaced that and now, like many others I'm finding, I keep getting the DPF pressure code (P20E8). I have a monitor app and can see the real time pressure of the DPF system and its showing 40 PSI at idle... so whats with the code? Anyone figure anything out with their issues? Is it a flashable fix at the dealer?
Reluctant (DEF) pump out. 890$ to fix. Ugh Keller Ford profits. 2011 Ford F-250. How can this not be part of the emissions warranty? Doesn't seem right on a five year old truck does it?
Anyone else have this happen?
3 Toyotas never once in the shop. First Ford and it's been in the shop 3 times since I've owned it brand new.
.
It's 2019, So a 2011 truck is at least 8 years old. ( I bought my 2011 in Aug 2010, So maybe yours is 9 years old) Three trips in for repairs in 9 years is not excessive.
I've owned 3 of these 6.7L trucks (2011, 2015 and now 2017) with cumulative mileage of 300,000 miles. I've had a couple minor repairs. Turbo coolant connector ( 2011) EGT Sensors (2011) Something to do with the EGR return sensor on my 2015 and a steering wheel position sensor 2015
But for the the most part they have been trouble free to drive. I don't buy the extended warranties and I feel I'm money ahead, even after paying for the few repairs listed above.
I wish I had an answer for you as to why you are getting this code.But they are holding up as well as most other brands.
I'm resurrecting this thread because I just replaced my heater to fix the P20BA code. After I started it and ran it for a while after the repair I noticed the pump made a weird sound after I shut the truck off. Turned the key on for about 15 seconds and then off and it still made the noise but was getting quieter and eventually stopped. I chalked it up to the pump priming itself again. Well this evening I went to pick up some dinner for the family and on my way home I got the reductant pressure too low code. Is the pump just still working out some air or do I need to be concerned?
I'm resurrecting this thread because I just replaced my heater to fix the P20BA code. After I started it and ran it for a while after the repair I noticed the pump made a weird sound after I shut the truck off. Turned the key on for about 15 seconds and then off and it still made the noise but was getting quieter and eventually stopped. I chalked it up to the pump priming itself again. Well this evening I went to pick up some dinner for the family and on my way home I got the reductant pressure too low code. Is the pump just still working out some air or do I need to be concerned?
mxer0022 did you ever find out an answer to your issue? I’ve replaced the pump and heater and still can’t get rid of the code.
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