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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 01:02 PM
  #31  
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nossliw
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
How much of a difference do you think you would you see if the temp dropped 15 degrees in 5 minutes, like say if a huge cold front rolled through?
Humidity and air density are more of an affect than temperature, yes cooler air helps, but after it hits the turbo and is compressed with an IC or not your ambient intake temperature at the intake valve is likely not to change more than a few degrees.

This is evident on a dyno, take a 100 degree day 0% humidity vs a 50 degree day with 100% humidity, then yes you will see a difference in numbers, seat of the pants, no, turbo spool, maybe if you had an rpm from the turbine side and could graph comparably between the two... results would be different, but minimal IMO, at least from what I have seen on the dyno. The supercores from BW do have RPM bungs, played with them a bit but have not had much time to actually do across the board comparisons on injectors, let alone running conditions.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #32  
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Jarrett Campbell
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
Originally Posted by nossliw
Humidity and air density are more of an affect than temperature, yes cooler air helps, but after it hits the turbo and is compressed with an IC or not your ambient intake temperature at the intake valve is likely not to change more than a few degrees.

This is evident on a dyno, take a 100 degree day 0% humidity vs a 50 degree day with 100% humidity, then yes you will see a difference in numbers, seat of the pants, no, turbo spool, maybe if you had an rpm from the turbine side and could graph comparably between the two... results would be different, but minimal IMO, at least from what I have seen on the dyno. The supercores from BW do have RPM bungs, played with them a bit but have not had much time to actually do across the board comparisons on injectors, let alone running conditions.
Good info. Thanks! I love learning new things.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 05:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
That is a different kind of water-assisted cooling. The water (water/meth) injection is when water is injected into the IC pipes and cools/condenses the air coming into the motor (condensed air=more 02=more boom).

Driving in rain increases the heat transfer in the IC and radiator, allowing boost to be built more quickly and EGTs to be lower.
We'll look at you Mr. Combustion Scientist! LMAO!! Just messing with you. That's pretty good info.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 05:49 PM
  #34  
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From: Fallon NV
Well I'm going to add some Chrome to the engine, add some Marvel mystery to the oil, 101 octane booster and put a bobble head on the hood. F it will be fast!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #35  
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oldbird1965
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Originally Posted by nossliw
I build my own. Most components come from Coolingmist and MCMaster Carr. Buy name brand you will pay 5 fold for a snow performance or Banks kit... I have put 15 or so together this year primarily for diesels but even for small displacement ethanol motors/drag motors.

Biggest thing I suggest is running straight water, and during the winter winshield wiper fluid that is straight water/methanol. Increased methanol is not worth the minimal power gain you will get over changed flashpoint of the combustion cycle and timing variance. Just run water. I was very hesitant at first, after 125k now I am happy I made the change. Guys freak out about only using distilled. I have used a hose since day one, on the road as well.

I've run coolingmist and devil's own but wasn't very happy with customer service and price. I still have my tank, pump, some nozzles, stop solenoid and maybe a few other things I salvaged from the burned up truck. If I could twist your arm Nick, what components do you use? If its a trade secret, I understand !
 
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