Brake controller
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
the fact that my blue wire is energized makes me think something is wrong but what you said is interesting. Out of curiosity, does the light illuminate at all if a trailer isn't hooked up but the brakes are depressed?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Here are the instructions. http://www.tekonsha.com/support/installation/N9030.pdf.
The point about no light with no trailer is important. I was thinking there was a trailer, but obviously that was my mistake. Normally there is a very low voltage that passes down the blue lead to verify there is a trailer.
Steve
The point about no light with no trailer is important. I was thinking there was a trailer, but obviously that was my mistake. Normally there is a very low voltage that passes down the blue lead to verify there is a trailer.
Steve
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
Here are the instructions. http://www.tekonsha.com/support/installation/N9030.pdf. The point about no light with no trailer is important. I was thinking there was a trailer, but obviously that was my mistake. Normally there is a very low voltage that passes down the blue lead to verify there is a trailer. Steve
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
To test any brake controller, if you can hook to a trailer, you have to at least have magnet inline to mimic the trailer. I can't recall off-hand, but I did a write-up on testing the built-in controller for the towing site and I think the output was well under 1 amp so that may not be enough.
It is really hard for most folks to test a controller at home as the manufacturers say all testing has to be done in amps, not volts and no test lights please. I use an emulator which mimics the entire trailer braking system when I test, but it is not practical for most folks given the cost and infrequent use.
Is there any way you can test with a trailer? You need some kind of a load and I doubt a test light is enough.
It is really hard for most folks to test a controller at home as the manufacturers say all testing has to be done in amps, not volts and no test lights please. I use an emulator which mimics the entire trailer braking system when I test, but it is not practical for most folks given the cost and infrequent use.
Is there any way you can test with a trailer? You need some kind of a load and I doubt a test light is enough.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
To test any brake controller, if you can hook to a trailer, you have to at least have magnet inline to mimic the trailer. I can't recall off-hand, but I did a write-up on testing the built-in controller for the towing site and I think the output was well under 1 amp so that may not be enough. It is really hard for most folks to test a controller at home as the manufacturers say all testing has to be done in amps, not volts and no test lights please. I use an emulator which mimics the entire trailer braking system when I test, but it is not practical for most folks given the cost and infrequent use. Is there any way you can test with a trailer? You need some kind of a load and I doubt a test light is enough.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I should have caught it, but in your opening post when you talked about all the lights working I assumed you had a trailer there and were working backwards when the brakes weren't working correctly. I am sorry for assuming incorrectly as it colored my statements.
Brake controllers almost never fail and that is a fact. The liability a failed controller poses for their manufacturers is so high, this is the single most reliable component in the RV industry. I do not think you have two failed controllers. The odds are very great you are ready to roll. If I were you, I would chance it.
Steve
Brake controllers almost never fail and that is a fact. The liability a failed controller poses for their manufacturers is so high, this is the single most reliable component in the RV industry. I do not think you have two failed controllers. The odds are very great you are ready to roll. If I were you, I would chance it.
Steve
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: Powell, wy
My tekonsha p2 wouldn't light up unless there was a trailer connected. I just switched to a p3 and says right on the screen that there isn't a trailer connected. The p3 has a trouble shooting program built into it and one section shows the output voltage. It shows the voltage at 1v or so at very little pedal input and rises the more you step on the pedal. I would be willing to bet your brake controller is working properly, just very hard to test without a trailer connected.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
so I think I'm in business. I did the testing again at the controller with the volt meter and still had 12v on the blue. Then I checked with a test light and it wouldn't light. I repeated the test at the 7pin and had the same results. Thanks for talking me thru this. I'm guessing it had the voltage to check for a trailer and to register the volt meter but not enough amperage to light the light. And with the other FTE members saying that they don't get a light without the trailer, I feel pretty good about making the run to pick up the trailer. Thanks again.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
The only thing I would add to this is it is important to note the absence of a light with no trailer is not universal so be sure to read your manual or go online to read it, in the event you do not have one. 
Steve
Steve
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,373
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
The Tekonsha Voyager is a good controller, I've had them in 5 trucks now, never any problem.
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