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What brand/type of electric brake controllers do you guys like?? I'm buying a 7000lb GVW 7x14 box trailer with dual axles and it has electric brakes so I'm going to need one. This is new to me since it's the first trailer with electric brakes I have owned. Have one with no brakes and one with a surge brake.
A buddy gave me a Valley brand controller with hard/soft adjustment slides and a light that turns red when you brake. So I guess I'll use this with the wire harness that came with the truck to start with. Anybody know if Valley is a good brand or should I plan on getting something else later on?
Also-the papers with the controller say to use a 20amp breaker on the hot wire. Do I need to do use the breaker or is there some type of breaker already incorporated into the trucks electrical/brake system??
I use a DrawTite Activator II. I tow a 27 ft. TT, and a 20 ft equipment trailer loaded with a 5000 lb. tractor. It has a digital readout and is very easy to use. I see quite a bit of people like the Teskhosa (sp?) controller and like them. I know nothing about the Valley controller. Yes, on your truck you will have to install relays and fuses to use a brake controller. The wiring is already there with the realy and fuse sockets. You will need a pigtail harness to go from the under the dash connector to your controller.
After using a Tekonsha Prodigy, I'd never go back to a lesser controller. The Prodigy senses how quickly the truck is slowing and applies power to the trailer brakes accordingly. When stopped, the power is cut bakc to 25% to prevent overheating. Other controllers (except the Jordan) apply full power or no power. The Prodigy gives a much more controlled feel to braking. On the other hand, you'll spend $125 on a Prodigy compared to $65 on another type of controller (the Jordan is around $150). As I've heard others say; "Ya pays your money and ya takes your chances!"
I have had great luck with the Tekonsha Sentinel. It's been in 3 different trucks over the past 4 years and I've never had any problems with it. If you get a Sentinal though make sure you read the instructions and do a good job leveling it.
Originally posted by GAV10 I use a DrawTite Activator II. I tow a 27 ft. TT, and a 20 ft equipment trailer loaded with a 5000 lb. tractor. It has a digital readout and is very easy to use. I see quite a bit of people like the Teskhosa (sp?) controller and like them. I know nothing about the Valley controller. Yes, on your truck you will have to install relays and fuses to use a brake controller. The wiring is already there with the realy and fuse sockets. You will need a pigtail harness to go from the under the dash connector to your controller.
GAV10 Mark
I have the pigtail harness, controller and relay in already. Didn't know about the fuse. Does it go in the under-dash fuse center or engine bay fuse box? Thanks.
I'm almost positive the fuse goes in the engine bay, the fuse block just forward of the brake fluid reservior. I'll check when I get home tonight and let you know the exact location and size of the fuse. If memory serves me correct you need a relay for battery charging and back-up lights also, I'll check.
This is for my 2000. 30 Amp fuse goes in position #28 for trailer tow electric brakes. 30 Amp fuse goes in position #18 for battery charger circuit. The relays (trailer charging and trailer back up lights) are in a samller box between the main under hood fuse box and the brake fluid resevoir. They are the same part number FOAB-14B192-A.
I bought a prodigy this week on e-bay total cost 111.99 brand new. One of the best things about it is that you do not have to mount it level. It self adjusts for the angle within limits. This is really important when towing downhill.See the following http://www.tekonsha.com/tekcat/prodigy.html
Thanks for all the info. I bought the new trailer home yesterday. Ended up with a 14x7 Interstate enclosed trailer with the wedge front and tandem axles. Curb wt 2670lbs with a GVWR or 9950lbs so I can carry up to 3 atvs (maybe 4) in it or have tons of room for my equipment and tractor. Has a side door, interior lighting and all the normal equipment. Now I just have to install some D rings and some shelves inside and it's good to go. Loaded our atvs in it just to try it out and the F250 handles it no sweat.
Ended up keeping the Valley controller for now and it seemed to work fine. The shop guy at the trailer lot hooked up a test board to the truck's plug and everything worked fine. Gav10-the fuses you were talking about were already installed in my truck when I bought it so that was kind of nice. I'm going trial riding next week so I'm going to haul 3 atvs in it plus one in the bed for about 300 miles round trip so I'll really get to see how it does on a long trip. Thanks again.
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