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I was offroading and the solenoid pack pigtail go ripped out. got home plugged the pigtail back in, replaced fuse 23 and I still have all of the cel codes and with that pigtail plugged in the truck misfires so bad upon acelleration that it barley moves but driving with it unplugged it runs fine but won't get out of second gear. this is the second time I've had the transmission harness out and didn't find any broken or burnt wires. I've read every forum regarding this and cant find an answer to what could be wrong. any help would be appreciated
So I have the fuse box open and I have power going to fuse 23 but I tested the female side of the tranny harness and didn't get the light to light up on my test light. what wires should I be following back/looking for to test. don't see any related colors
1. What year is this trucK? Engine? 2WD or 4WD?
2. Which fusebox are you poking around in (there are two)?
3. Are you positive of your identification of the fuse identifier?
1. What year is this trucK? Engine? 2WD or 4WD?
99 f150 with a PI motor still running coil packs
4.6 4x4
2. Which fusebox are you poking around in (there are two)?
the one on the driver side of the engine bay
3. Are you positive of your identification of the fuse identifier?
Yes I looked at the diagram on the cap and have checked all the fuses with a led fuse checker
I've seen fuse box lids with the incorrect diagrams on them, the owner's manual is a better source of information. Just want to make certain the the correct circuit is identified as having a blown fuse.
Fuse F23 doesn't go to the transmission, it feeds the upstream O2 sensor heaters and a bunch of other stuff. It's F24 that feeds the transmission (and the downstream O2 sensor heaters) via the red wire on pin 4 of the transmission connector and is identified as circuit #361 in the schematics. You indicated that you have power on that pin in post #4, perhaps it may be intermittent. I'd set the meter in the continuity/beeper mode, if it has one, and give the harness a wiggle test (power removed, of course) checking circuit 361 back to the load side of F24.
You can also check the continuity of the transmissions internal harness by checking for the resistance of each of the solenoid's coils back through pin #4. Use the diagram in post #1 for the other probe connection. Without looking it up, I'd expect the solenoids to measure somewhere between 10 and 100 ohms each. The actual number isn't important at this point, you just want to make sure the circuit(s) is (are) not open-circuited.
I've seen fuse box lids with the incorrect diagrams on them, the owner's manual is a better source of information. Just want to make certain the the correct circuit is identified as having a blown fuse.
Fuse F23 doesn't go to the transmission, it feeds the upstream O2 sensor heaters and a bunch of other stuff. It's F24 that feeds the transmission (and the downstream O2 sensor heaters) via the red wire on pin 4 of the transmission connector and is identified as circuit #361 in the schematics. You indicated that you have power on that pin in post #4, perhaps it may be intermittent. I'd set the meter in the continuity/beeper mode, if it has one, and give the harness a wiggle test (power removed, of course) checking circuit 361 back to the load side of F24.
You can also check the continuity of the transmissions internal harness by checking for the resistance of each of the solenoid's coils back through pin #4. Use the diagram in post #1 for the other probe connection. Without looking it up, I'd expect the solenoids to measure somewhere between 10 and 100 ohms each. The actual number isn't important at this point, you just want to make sure the circuit(s) is (are) not open-circuited.
so I had checked and there is no break in wire #361 wiggled fuse box end and harness end and it was fine. any suggestions on what to check next?
Good. Too many people miss that part. Wires can break while the insulation stays together. The wire looks fine, but doesn't conduct electricity. It's good that you did it right.
So I put everything back in and took the truck around the block and it misfired like crazy with the one plug in so I unplugged it and it was still the same. when I came back I checked and no fuses were blown but my battery light was on (not sure if it's related or not)
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